Structured Lined Suiting Jacket
A women's collarless lined jacket, fitted with princess seams front and back. Faced pointed yokes lie over the fronts and shape a deep V-neck; the front closes with one button.
When To Wear
- For the office over a fine knit or a silk top, with a matching skirt or trousers.
- In spring and autumn as a lined jacket over a dress.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted, shaped by princess seams and back darts.
Length: Just below the waist.
Neckline: Collarless V-neck; the front neckline is formed by the yoke edges, the back neckline is faced.
Front: Centre and side front panels joined by princess seams. A yoke running from the shoulder to the neckline point lies over each front; its lower edge is faced with a separate interfaced yoke facing.
Closure: Single button with a buttonhole at the waist.
Sleeves: Long two-piece set-in sleeves with elbow and front seams, cap eased.
Back: Centre back seam, princess seams and darts.
Finishing: Shoulder pads and sleeve heads; interfaced front facings and back neck facing; hem allowances 3 cm, interfaced.
Lining: Full lining including the yokes and sleeves, bagged out through an opening in the right sleeve seam.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Faced overlay yokes, princess seams, two-piece sleeves with eased caps and shoulder pads, a bagged lining.
Fabric Recommendations
Suiting fabric in natural or blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (centre fronts, front facings, back neck facing, yoke facings, hem allowances)
- 1 button
- Shoulder pads
- Sleeve heads
Cutter's Must
From main fabric:
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Side front – 2 pieces
- Front yoke – 2 pieces
- Yoke facing – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Front facing – 2 pieces
From lining fabric:
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Side front – 2 pieces
- Yoke lining – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
From fusible interfacing:
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Yoke facing – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- Interface the pieces with fusible interfacing. Interface the back neckline seam allowance, the hem allowances of the jacket bottom and sleeve bottoms.
- Stitch the darts on the back pieces, press the fullness towards the center. Stitch the back princess seams, press the allowances towards the center. Stitch the center back seam, press the allowances open.
- Stitch the front princess seams, press the allowances towards the center.
- Place the front yoke and its facing right sides together and stitch the lower edge. Clip the allowances, turn the facing to the wrong side, and press. Place the front piece and the yoke facing right sides together and stitch, press the allowances.
- Stitch and press open the side and shoulder seams of the jacket.
- Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the sleeve. Press up the sleeve hem. Stitch and press open the front sleeve seam. Set the sleeves into the armholes according to the notches, easing the sleeve cap. Insert shoulder pads, sew in sleeve heads.
- On the lining fabric pieces, stitch the seams and set in the sleeves, leaving an opening in the front right sleeve seam. Stitch the shoulder seams of the front facings and the back neckline facing. Press the allowances open. Attach the lining to the front facings and the back neckline facing.
- Place the front facing on the right side of the front piece, right side down, pin and stitch along the front edge and around the neckline. Stitch the lower edges of the front facings to the front piece strictly along the marked hemline, stopping 1.5 cm before the inner edge of the facing. Trim the allowances at the corners. Turn the front edges to the right side, straighten the seams. Press the lower edge of the garment to the wrong side. Attach the lining to the bottom of the garment and the bottom of the sleeve. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening. Sew up the opening.
- On the right front piece, make a buttonhole, and on the left front piece, sew on a button.
