Fabric & Materials
FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: dense fabrics made of natural or blended fibers of similar or contrasting colors. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; lining fabric; 4 metal zippers 15 cm long; 5 buttons.
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS ARE WITHOUT SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Seam allowances for bias edges of the side front and front insert – 1.5 cm. Hem allowance for sleeve bottom - 3.0 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- From main fabric 1:
- Center back – 1 piece
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Front insert – 2 pieces
- Side front – 2 pieces
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Yoke – 2 pieces
- Collar stand – 2 pieces
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Under sleeve – 2 pieces
- From main fabric 2:
- Lower back – 2 pieces
- Lower front – 4 pieces
- Inner placket – 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Side front - 2 pieces
- Center back – 1 piece
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Under sleeve – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Collar stand – 1 piece
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Inner placket – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces, as well as the bottom edge of the garment and sleeve hems.
- Stitch and press open the back princess seams. Attach the lower back to the back, pressing seam allowances upwards. Insert the outer collar stand into the back neckline, pressing seam allowances towards the stand.
- Fuse interfacing to the seam allowances of the bias edges of the side front and front insert. Stitch them from the outer edges to the marks, press seam allowances open, place a zipper underneath, and topstitch around the perimeter.
- Attach the yoke to the side front, pressing seam allowances towards the yoke. Stitch the front princess seams, pressing seam allowances towards the center. Attach the lower front to the front, pressing seam allowances upwards.
- Stitch and press open the side seams. Stitch the shoulder seams simultaneously with the collar stand seam, pressing seam allowances open.
- Stitch to the mark and press open the elbow seam of the sleeve. Place a zipper underneath the seam allowances and topstitch on three sides. Press the sleeve hem to the wrong side. Stitch and press open the front sleeve seam.
- Set the sleeves into the armholes according to the notches, easing the sleeve cap. Press the seam allowances.
- Attach the inner placket to the front facing, pressing seam allowances towards the placket. On the lining fabric pieces, stitch the seams, insert the inner collar stand, and set the sleeves, leaving an opening in the front left sleeve seam. Attach the lining to the inner edges of the front facings. Attach the lower back and front pieces to the lining.
- Place the front facing on the right side of the front, right sides together, pin, and stitch around the front edge, collar stand, and bottom edge of the garment. Trim seams at corners, clip curves. Turn the garment right side out, straighten seams, and press.
- Attach the lining to the sleeve hem. Secure the hem allowance to the zipper tape. Stitch the opening in the sleeve. Topstitch along the collar stand attachment seam. Secure the jacket to the lining along the attachment line of the lower parts.
- On the right front, make buttonholes, and on the left front, sew on buttons.
