Fabric & Materials
FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: dense jacket fabrics made of natural or blended fibers; knit fabric with high or medium stretch. ALSO NEEDED: fusible interlining; lining; separating zipper.
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).
- From main fabric:
- Back – 1 piece with fold
- Front – 2 pieces
- Back sleeve part – 2 pieces
- Front sleeve part – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Placket – 2 pieces
- Large pocket bag – 2 pieces
- Welt – 2 pieces
- Tab – 2 pieces
- From knit fabric:
- Collar – 1 piece
- Back waistband – 1 piece
- Front waistband – 2 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Back – 1 piece
- Front – 2 pieces
- Back sleeve part – 2 pieces
- Front sleeve part – 2 pieces
- Small pocket bag – 2 pieces
- FROM FUSIBLE INTERLINING:
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Placket – 1 piece
- Welt – 2 pieces
ATTENTION: Front and back lining pieces are cut according to the main fabric patterns, subtracting the width of the front facings and back neckline facing, respectively.
Sewing Instructions
WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- Fuse interlining to the designated pieces.
- Stitch darts on the front, press allowances upwards.
- Mark and fuse interlining to the pocket placement area. Press the welt piece lengthwise in half, wrong sides together. Stitch the small pocket bag to the inner side of the welt. Attach the welt to the front along the lower pocket marking line. Attach the large pocket bag to the front along the upper pocket marking line. Stitch ends finish at the short marking lines. Cut the pocket opening. Make diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket. Turn the welt and large pocket bag to the wrong side through the opening. Secure pocket ends from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Stitch pocket bag edges.
- Attach the back sleeve part to the back, press seams open. Attach the front sleeve part to the front, press seams open. Stitch the upper edges of the sleeves. Press seams open.
- Press the collar lengthwise in half, right side out. Attach the collar to the neckline of the back and front.
- Fold placket pieces right sides together and stitch along the outer contour. Clip allowances at curves, turn placket right side out, straighten, press. Stitch the right side of the zipper to the placket.
- Attach the tab to the front part of the waistband. Press seam and topstitch. Attach the waistband to the front pieces. Attach the back part of the waistband to the back.
- Fold front pieces right sides together and align edges, measure the length of the front edges. Attach the separating zipper to the edge of the front.
- Attach the front facing to the inner edge of the tab. Place the front facing on the right side of the front, right side down, and stitch along the front edge and neckline. Stitching is done from the front side. Turn front edges right side out, straighten seams and press.
- Stitch the lower edges of the sleeves and side edges in one continuous seam. Press seams open.
- Stitch lining pieces similarly to the main fabric pieces, leaving an opening in the lower seam of the right sleeve. Attach the lining to the inner edges of the front facings, back neckline facing, and inner edge of the waistband. Turn the garment right side out through the opening in the sleeve and stitch the technical opening closed. Topstitch along the waistband attachment seam.
- Stitch the cuff into a loop. Press the cuff lengthwise in half, wrong side in. Attach cuffs to the bottom of the sleeve and lining, overcast allowances.
