Fabric recommendations: suiting fabric made of natural or blended fibers; contrasting fabric for trim. Also needed: fusible interfacing; lining; 5 buttons; shoulder pads, sleeve heads. If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for jacket bottom and sleeve bottom 3 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical details).
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Side front – 2 pieces
- Center front right – 1 piece
- Center front left – 1 piece
- Inner collar – 1 piece
- Outer collar trim – 1 piece
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Left front facing – 1 piece
- Right front facing – 1 piece
- From contrasting fabric:
- Outer collar – 1 piece
- From lining fabric:
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Side front – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Center front right – 1 piece
- Center front left – 1 piece
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Left front facing – 1 piece
- Right front facing – 1 piece
- Outer collar – 1 piece
- Outer collar trim – 1 piece
Attention: Lining pieces for the front and back are cut according to the main fabric patterns, subtracting the width of the front facings and back neckline facing, respectively.
Sewing Instructions
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match! Markings on patterns are on the right side!
- Reinforce details with fusible interfacing. Also reinforce the hem allowance of the garment bottom and sleeve bottom.
- Stitch darts on the back, press allowances towards the center. Stitch panel seams of the back, press allowances towards the center. Stitch center back seam, press allowances open.
- Stitch panel seams of the front, press allowances towards the center.
- Stitch and press open side and shoulder seams of the jacket.
- Attach, clipping at corners, the collar trim to the outer collar, press allowances towards the collar.
- Fold collars right sides together and stitch along the ends and outer edge. Clip allowances at curves, trim at corners. Turn collar right side out, straighten, press. Attach collar to neckline.
- Stitch and press open shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facings. Fold front facings and facing with the front right sides together and stitch the front edge, neckline, and lower corner, stopping 1.5 cm before the edge of the front facing. Trim allowances at corners, clip at curves. Turn front edges right side out, straighten seams, press.
- Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the sleeve. Press up the sleeve hem. Stitch and press open the front seam of the sleeve. Set sleeves into armholes according to notches, easing the sleeve cap. Insert shoulder pads, attach sleeve heads.
- On lining fabric pieces, stitch seams and set sleeves, leaving an opening in the front left sleeve seam. Attach lining to the inner edges of the front facings and facing. Press the bottom edge of the garment to the wrong side. Attach lining to the bottom of the garment and to the sleeve bottom. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening. Close the opening.
- On the right front, make buttonholes, and on the left front, sew on buttons.
