Inverted Pleat Raglan Sleeve Dress

Fabric & Materials

FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: dress fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. ALSO NEEDED: fusible interfacing, concealed zipper. IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THEY INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES; IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm; hem allowance for dress bottom – 3.0 cm; hem allowance for sleeve – 2 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).

CUTTER'S MUST

WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

• From main fabric:
  • Back - 2 pieces
  • Front - 1 piece on fold
  • Front side panel - 2 pieces
  • Pocket bag – 4 pieces
  • Front sleeve part — 2 pieces
  • Back sleeve part – 2 pieces
  • Front neckline facing — 1 piece
  • Back neckline facing – 2 pieces
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Front neckline facing — 1 piece
  • Back neckline facing – 2 pieces

Sewing Instructions

1. Interface facing pieces with fusible interfacing.
2. Stitch waist darts on the back. Press dart depths towards the center. Serge the center back edges separately. Stitch the seam from the zipper mark downwards. Press open the seam allowances, pressing the zipper opening flat. Insert the zipper.
3. Stitch bust dart on the front. Press dart depth upwards.
4. Attach pocket bag pieces to the front and front side panel. Serge and press seam allowances towards the pocket bag. Stitch the front princess seam, simultaneously stitching the pocket lining. Serge and press seam allowances towards the center front.
5. Attach sleeve pieces to the front and back. Serge and press seam allowances towards the main piece.
6. Stitch shoulder seams simultaneously with the sleeve seam. Serge and press seam allowances towards the back.
7. Form and secure the pleat on the front.
8. Stitch side seams, simultaneously with the sleeve seam, press seam allowances towards the back and serge.
9. Stitch shoulder seams of neckline facings, serge the outer edge. Place the dress with the facing right sides together, aligning neckline edges, and stitch. Clip seam allowances at curves, turn the facing to the wrong side and press. Secure the facing to the shoulder seams and to the zipper tape.
10. Serge the bottom edge of the garment, press to the wrong side and topstitch. Serge the bottom edge of the sleeve, press to the wrong side and topstitch.