Jacket with Asymmetric Closure

Name: Jacket with Asymmetric Closure
Brand: Minerva Patterns
SKU: 4626
Price: 5.00 EUR
Availability: InStock

Pattern #4626

A women's lined jacket with an off-centre button closure along a diagonal front edge and a large turn-down collar whose upper collar is cut from a contrast fabric and edged with a band of the main fabric. Princess seams front and back, two-piece sleeves. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: suiting fabric in natural or blended fibres; a contrast fabric for the upper collar.

Tech. Description

Jacket with Asymmetric Closure

When To Wear

For the office with a straight skirt or slim trousers.
In spring and autumn, worn buttoned up with the collar framing the neck.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Fitted, shaped by princess seams front and back and back darts.

Length: High hip.

Collar: Wide turn-down collar with pointed ends at the front. The upper collar is in contrast fabric with a main-fabric trim along its outer edge; the under collar is in the main fabric. Both upper collar pieces are interfaced.

Front: Asymmetric: the right and left centre fronts are cut differently, so the front edge runs diagonally from the neck to the hem. Buttons sit along this edge.

Closure: 5 buttons with buttonholes on the right front.

Sleeves: Long two-piece set-in sleeves with elbow and front seams, cap eased.

Back: Centre back seam, princess seams and darts.

Finishing: Shoulder pads and sleeve heads; interfaced centre fronts, front facings and back neck facing; 3 cm hem allowances, interfaced.

Lining: Full lining, bagged out through an opening in the left sleeve seam.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. An asymmetric front with separate left and right facings, a pieced contrast collar with clipped corners and curves, five buttonholes, two-piece sleeves with shoulder pads, a bagged lining.

Fabric Recommendations

Suiting fabric in natural or blended fibres; a contrast fabric for the upper collar.

Additional Supplies

Lining fabric
Contrast fabric (upper collar)
Fusible interfacing (centre fronts, front facings, back neck facing, upper collar, collar trim, hem allowances)
5 buttons
Shoulder pads
Sleeve heads

Cutter's Must

From main fabric:

Center back – 2 pieces
Side back – 2 pieces
Side front – 2 pieces
Center front right – 1 piece
Center front left – 1 piece
Inner collar – 1 piece
Outer collar trim – 1 piece
Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
Back neckline facing – 1 piece
Left front facing – 1 piece
Right front facing – 1 piece

From contrasting fabric:

Outer collar – 1 piece

From lining fabric:

Center back – 2 pieces
Center front – 2 pieces
Side back – 2 pieces
Side front – 2 pieces
Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
Lower sleeve – 2 pieces

From fusible interfacing:

Center front right – 1 piece
Center front left – 1 piece
Back neckline facing – 1 piece
Left front facing – 1 piece
Right front facing – 1 piece
Outer collar – 1 piece
Outer collar trim – 1 piece

Attention: Lining pieces for the front and back are cut according to the main fabric patterns, subtracting the width of the front facings and back neckline facing, respectively.

Sewing Instructions

When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match! Markings on patterns are on the right side!

Reinforce details with fusible interfacing. Also reinforce the hem allowance of the garment bottom and sleeve bottom.
Stitch darts on the back, press allowances towards the center. Stitch panel seams of the back, press allowances towards the center. Stitch center back seam, press allowances open.
Stitch panel seams of the front, press allowances towards the center.
Stitch and press open side and shoulder seams of the jacket.
Attach, clipping at corners, the collar trim to the outer collar, press allowances towards the collar.
Fold collars right sides together and stitch along the ends and outer edge. Clip allowances at curves, trim at corners. Turn collar right side out, straighten, press. Attach collar to neckline.
Stitch and press open shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facings. Fold front facings and facing with the front right sides together and stitch the front edge, neckline, and lower corner, stopping 1.5 cm before the edge of the front facing. Trim allowances at corners, clip at curves. Turn front edges right side out, straighten seams, press.
Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the sleeve. Press up the sleeve hem. Stitch and press open the front seam of the sleeve. Set sleeves into armholes according to notches, easing the sleeve cap. Insert shoulder pads, attach sleeve heads.
On lining fabric pieces, stitch seams and set sleeves, leaving an opening in the front left sleeve seam. Attach lining to the inner edges of the front facings and facing. Press the bottom edge of the garment to the wrong side. Attach lining to the bottom of the garment and to the sleeve bottom. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening. Close the opening.
On the right front, make buttonholes, and on the left front, sew on buttons.