Fitted Asymmetric Collar Coat
A fitted, above-the-knee women's coat with an asymmetric front: the right front has a wide lapel that rises into a stand collar, and the button closure is set off centre. Princess seams front and back, in-seam side pockets, full lining.
When To Wear
- Over dresses and skirt suits in spring and autumn.
- With trousers and fine knitwear for the office or city wear.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted to the waist through princess seams from the armholes on the front and back, slightly flared to the hem.
Length: Just above the knee.
Collar: A stand collar, cut in one piece and interfaced, attached to the back neckline and joined to the lapel of the right front. The right front lapel is turned back over the chest, shaped by separate right and left centre front pieces and facings.
Closure: Asymmetric single-breasted closure, buttonholes on the right front, buttons on the left.
Sleeves: Long two-piece set-in sleeves with eased caps, sleeve head rolls and shoulder pads.
Pockets: In-seam pockets in the side seams, with pocket bags in lining fabric.
Back: Centre back seam and princess seams.
Finishing: Front edge seam allowance understitched to the facing 0.2 cm from the seam; hem blind-stitched by hand with a 3.5 cm allowance.
Lining: Full lining with lined sleeves; the lining hem is turned twice by 1.5 cm and stitched, hanging free of the coat hem.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. An asymmetric front with a lapel joined to a stand collar, two-piece set-in sleeves with sleeve heads, in-seam pockets and a lining sewn to the facings with a hand-finished hem.
Fabric Recommendations
Lightweight coating in natural or blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Soft woven fusible interfacing (facings, collar stand, back neckline facing, hem allowances)
- 5 buttons
- Shoulder pads
- Sleeve head rolls
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the bottom of the garment and sleeve 3.5 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- From main fabric:
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Side front – 2 pieces
- Center front right – 1 piece
- Center front left – 1 piece
- Right facing – 1 piece
- Left facing – 1 piece
- Collar stand – 1 piece
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Under sleeve – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- From lining fabric:
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Side front – 2 pieces
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Under sleeve – 2 pieces
- Pocket bag – 4 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Right facing – 1 piece
- Left facing – 1 piece
- Collar stand – 1 piece
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
Attention: back and front lining pieces are cut deducting the width of the back neckline facing and the front facing, respectively.
Sewing Instructions
- Interface the facings, back neckline facing, collar stand, and hem allowances for the bottom of the garment and sleeves with fusible interfacing. The fusible interfacing extends 1 cm beyond the marked hemline.
- Place the facings on the right side of the front pieces, right side down, pin and stitch the edge of the front opening and the lapel. Stitch from the bottom up to the mark “O” on the front piece side. Stitch the bottom edges of the facings to the front piece strictly along the marked hemline, stopping 1.5 cm before the inner edge of the facing. Trim seams at corners. Topstitch the seam allowance of the front opening to the facing from the bottom to the first mark. The stitching should be 0.2 cm from the seam. Turn the front openings to the right side, press the seams.
- Stitch the center back seam, press seams open and overlock up to the waist. Stitch the princess seams of the back and front, press seams open and overlock up to the waist.
- Stitch the outer side of the collar stand to the back neckline, press seams open. Stitch the back facing to the inner edge of the collar stand, press seams open.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the back and front and, continuing the stitching, attach the collar stand with the facing to the main garment. Press seam allowances towards the back. Fold the collar stand in half and secure the collar stand attachment allowances together.
- Stitch pocket bags to the side seam allowances. Stitch the side seams, simultaneously stitching the pocket bags. On the side back piece, clip the seams at the pocket opening. Press pocket bags towards the center front, press the side seam towards the back and overlock up to the waist.
- Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the sleeve. Press up the sleeve hem. Turn back the hem, stitch and press open the front sleeve seam.
- Set in sleeves into armholes according to notches, easing the cap. Insert shoulder pads and sleeve head rolls.
- On the lining fabric pieces, stitch seams and set in sleeves. Overlock side and princess seam allowances from the bottom to the waist. Turn up the bottom edge allowance of the lining twice by 1.5 cm and topstitch.
- Overlock, press, and hand-stitch the hem allowance of the garment bottom with blind stitches. Stitch the lining to the inner edges of the facings and the back neckline facing. Start and end the stitching halfway across the hem allowance of the main garment. Clip the allowance on the inner edge of the facing at the start of the lining attachment. Fold the facing allowance from the hemline to the clip inwards and hand-stitch with blind stitches. Overlock the lining attachment seam and press towards the lining.
- Stitch the lining to the bottom of the sleeves. Press the seam towards the lining.
- On the right front piece, make buttonholes, on the left front piece, sew on buttons.
