Insulated Hooded Coat
Introducing a versatile women's sewing pattern for an insulated, hooded coat, featuring a flattering belted waist and stylish tiered quilted lower sections.
When To Wear
This coat is designed for warmth and protection, making it an ideal choice for:
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Cold & Rainy Weather: Provides essential protection and insulation against the elements.
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Casual Winter Outings: Offers everyday warmth and a stylish silhouette for urban and outdoor activities.
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Transitional Seasons: Perfect for layering during unpredictable weather, offering comfort and adaptable styling.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted through the upper body, cinched at the waist by a wide belt, and expanding into an a-line lower body with tiered quilted sections.
Neckline & Hood: High neckline leading into an attached, generously sized hood with an adjustable drawstring and cord stoppers.
Closure: Full-length front opening secured by a robust detachable zipper, concealed by a snap-fastened storm placket.
Sleeves: Long, set-in sleeves with quilted detailing, designed for full coverage and warmth.
Pockets: Functional welt pockets with a vertical flap detail are strategically placed at the hips.
Back: Features matching tiered quilted detailing on the lower back and a defined waist with belt loops.
Hem: Knee-length hemline with distinctive tiered quilted sections, adding volume and style.
Waist: Defined by a wide, adjustable belt with a decorative buckle, held by sturdy belt loops.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Requires skills in zipper insertion, working with insulation and quilting, snap fastener application, and drawstring casing construction.
Fabric Recommendations
Choose durable and water-resistant outerwear materials to ensure protection and longevity:
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Insulation (e.g., batting, Isosoft)
- Detachable zipper (length specified on pattern piece)
- Elastic for quilting (1.5-2 cm wide)
- Elastic for belt (7 cm wide)
- Decorative buckle for belt (7 cm wide)
- 5 large snap fasteners
- 2 eyelets
- Drawstring cord for hood
- 2 cord stoppers
- 2 cord locks
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: lining edges – 1 cm, sleeve hem – 3 cm, all other seams – 1.5 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- From main fabric:
- Back yoke - 1 piece
- Center back - 1 piece
- Side back - 2 pieces
- Lower back - 1 piece
- Front yoke - 2 pieces
- Center front - 2 pieces
- Side front - 2 pieces
- Lower front - 2 pieces
- Sleeve - 2 pieces
- Center hood - 2 pieces
- Side hood - 4 pieces
- Welt pocket flap – 4 pieces
- Belt – 1 piece
- Wind flap — 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Inner placket — 2 pieces
- Belt loop — 1 piece
- From lining fabric:
- Lining of center front - 2 pieces
- Lining of side front - 2 pieces
- Lining of front yoke — 2 pieces
- Lining of center back - 1 piece
- Lining of side back - 2 pieces
- Lining of back yoke — 1 piece
- Sleeve lining – 2 pieces
- Pocket bag – 4 pieces
- From insulation:
- Back yoke - 1 piece
- Center back - 1 piece
- Side back - 2 pieces
- Lower back - 1 piece
- Front yoke - 2 pieces
- Center front - 2 pieces
- Side front - 2 pieces
- Lower front - 2 pieces
- Sleeve - 2 pieces
- Center hood - 1 piece
- Side hood - 2 pieces
- Welt pocket flap – 2 pieces
- Wind flap — 1 piece
- Inner placket — 1 piece
Note: 1). Hood lining is cut from the main fabric. 2). Sleeve insulation extends to the hemline. 3). Yoke lining and insulation are cut according to the main fabric patterns. 4). Before starting work, check the fabric's resistance to wet-heat treatment.
Sewing Instructions
- Stitch the yokes, center and side back and front pieces, as well as hood and sleeve pieces onto the corresponding insulation pieces. Stitch the placket and welt pocket flap pieces onto the insulation. Turn out the wind flap, inner placket, and welt pocket flaps along the short sides and one long side. Turn the pieces right side out, press, and topstitch 0.7 cm from the seam.
- Stitch the insulation pieces of the lower back and front with an overlapped seam. Stitch the main fabric pieces of the lower back and front. Press the seam towards the back. Along the upper and lower edges of the lower front piece, stitch with loosely tensioned stitches and gather to the length of the insulation. Stitch the upper edge of the lower piece to the insulation, wrap around the insulation, and stitch the gathers to the upper edge from the wrong side.
- On the wrong side of the center and side front pieces, at the pocket opening level, stitch elastic, slightly stretching it (elastic length is indicated on the patterns).
- Attach the welt pocket flap with pocket bag to the center front piece. Attach the pocket bag to the side front piece. Stitch the center and side front pieces together, simultaneously stitching the pocket bag. Press the seam towards the center and topstitch 0.7 cm from the seam. Along the upper edge of the front piece, stitch with loosely tensioned stitches and gather. Attach the yoke to the front. Press the seam upwards.
- Attach the side back pieces to the center back. Press the seam towards the center back and topstitch 0.7 cm from the seam. Along the upper edge of the back piece, stitch with loosely tensioned stitches and gather. Attach the yoke to the back. Press the seam upwards.
- On the wrong side of the back, front, and sleeve pieces, stitch elastic along the markings, slightly stretching it (elastic length is indicated on the patterns).
- Stitch shoulder and side seams, press allowances open.
- Stitch hood pieces. Press the seam towards the center and topstitch 0.7 cm. Insert eyelets according to markings. Attach hood pieces to the neckline. Press the seam.
- Stitch the left half of the zipper to the inner placket, aligning the edge of the zipper tape with the raw edge of the placket. Attach the placket with zipper to the left front edge. Attach the right half of the zipper to the right front piece.
- Stitch the sleeve seam. Set in sleeves at the armhole, matching notches.
- Lining: Stitch the lining pieces of the back, front, and hood separately. On the back neckline facing and front facings, press the outer edge inwards and stitch the facing and front facing respectively to the back and front. Stitch shoulder seams. Set in the sleeve into the open armhole. Stitch the side seam, simultaneously stitching the sleeve seam, leaving an opening for turning in the left sleeve. Attach the hood to the neckline.
- Fold the belt loop in half lengthwise right sides together and stitch the long edge. Turn the belt loop right side out, press, and cut into 2 pieces. Sew the belt loops at the side seam at waist level.
- Along the lower edge of the main piece, stitch with loosely tensioned stitches and gather to the length of the lower. Attach the lower back and front pieces to the lower edge of the coat.
- Face the front edge with lining, simultaneously facing the hood. Secure the hood attachment allowances of the main fabric and lining pieces together. Topstitch along the front edge 0.7 cm from the edge. Topstitch along the hood opening 3 cm. Attach the lining to the ruffle attachment seam. Attach the lining to the sleeve hem. Close the opening in the sleeve.
- Install snaps on the wind flap. Stitch the wind flap to the right front piece according to markings. Install snaps on the left front piece.
- Fold the belt piece in half lengthwise right sides together and stitch along the long side. Insert elastic, secure it at the sides, and stitch a reinforcing seam in the middle of the belt. Thread the ends of the belt through the buckle and adjust the length. Turn the ends inwards and topstitch. Thread the belt through the belt loops.
- Thread the cord into the hood, insert stoppers, attach cord ends.
