Belted Jacquard Coat with Contrast Inserts
A refined women's coat pattern in two coordinating light jacquards — a floral damask main fabric paired with a finer textured jacquard for the contrast inserts, tie belt, and pocket welts. A fitted, waist-cinched silhouette with a flat pointed collar and an open neckline.
When To Wear
Cut from occasion-worthy jacquard, this belted coat is made for dressed-up daytime moments:
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Daytime Celebrations: Weddings, christenings, and spring garden parties where a coat-dress makes the outfit.
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Mother of the Bride or Groom: An elegant, covered-yet-refined option for ceremony and reception.
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Races & Garden Parties: The jacquard and soft palette suit dressy daytime events and matinées.
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Milestone Occasions: Anniversaries, graduations, and celebratory lunches that call for something beyond everyday tailoring.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted through the torso with a gently flared skirt, cinched at the waist by a self-tie belt.
Collar: Flat pointed collar with an open V-neckline.
Closure: Center-front closure with four buttons.
Sleeves: Set-in sleeves finished with a broad contrast-jacquard band around the lower forearm.
Pockets: Welt pockets at the front hips.
Waist: Self-tie belt in the contrast jacquard, knotted at center front.
Hem: Broad contrast-jacquard band running around the lower skirt.
Length: Falls above the knee.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Requires experience with collar construction, welt pockets, placing patterned contrast panels, and working with lining.
Fabric Recommendations
Choose two coordinating medium-weight jacquard or brocade fabrics with structure and gentle drape:
- A patterned main fabric with a finer-textured contrast in a related tone
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing
- Lining fabric
- Shoulder pads
- 4 buttons
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances; if the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the bottom of the garment and sleeve 3.5 cm, along the side edges of the welt, facing, and pocket bags – 2 cm, hem allowance for the bottom of the lining 2 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).
- From main fabric:
- Upper back – 2 pieces
- Lower back – 1 piece on fold
- Lower back insert – 1 piece on fold
- Front – 2 pieces
- Lower front insert – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve insert – 2 pieces
- Belt – 1 piece
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Welt – 2 pieces
- Belt loop – 1 piece
- From contrast fabric:
- Contrast back insert – 1 piece on fold
- Contrast front insert – 2 pieces
- Contrast sleeve insert – 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Large pocket bag – 2 pieces
- Small pocket bag – 2 pieces
Attention: Lining pieces are cut with the front facing and neckline facing subtracted. From fusible interlining: front facing, back neckline facing, welt.
Sewing Instructions
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- Fuse interlining to the front facing, back neckline facing, and welts.
- Fold the welt in half lengthwise, right sides out, and press. Fuse interlining to the pocket placement area. Mark a line on the welt to define its finished width. Stitch the small pocket bag to the wrong side of the welt. Place the welt right side down on the right side of the front, aligning with the marked line (closer to the center). Stitch the welt. Stitch the front facing to the large pocket bag, folding the long edge inwards. Stitch the large pocket bag to the other pocket marking line. Cut the pocket opening in the middle between the marking lines, making diagonal cuts towards the pocket marking corners. Turn the pocket pieces to the wrong side. Straighten and press the seam allowances. Stitch the pocket bag edges, securing the pocket corners.
- Stitch the darts on the upper back. Press the darts towards the center seam. Stitch the center back seam. Press the seam open and overlock. On the lower back, create and secure a box pleat according to the markings. Stitch the lower back to the upper back. Overlock the seam and press upwards.
- Stitch the dart on the front. Press the dart upwards. Stitch the side and shoulder seams. Press the allowances open and overlock.
- Stitch the contrast insert pieces together. Press the seams open and overlock. Stitch the lower insert pieces together. Press the seams open and overlock. Stitch the contrast inserts to the main pieces. Press the seams towards the contrast insert and overlock. Stitch the lower inserts to the main garment. Press the seams towards the contrast insert and overlock. Press the pleats.
- Fold the collar pieces right sides together and stitch along the outer edge. Turn the collar right side out and press. Attach the collar to the neckline.
- Stitch the sleeve pieces. Overlock the seams and press towards the contrast insert. Stitch, overlock, and press the sleeve seam. Set the sleeves into the armholes, easing the sleeve cap at the top and matching the notches. Insert shoulder pads.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facing, press the allowances open.
- Stitch the lining pieces similarly to the main garment pieces. Turn under the hem allowance of the lining by 1 cm twice and stitch. Stitch the lining to the front facings and back facing. Press the allowances towards the lining and overlock.
- Press and overlock the bottom hem allowance. Place the front facing on the right side of the front, right side down, pin, and stitch along the front edge and back neckline. Stitch the lower edges of the front facings to the front strictly along the marked hemline. Trim the seams of the lower front corners. Turn the coat right side out, straighten the seams. Topstitch 0.7 cm from the edge of the front and collar.
- Stitch the lining to the bottom of the sleeves. Turn the coat right side out.
- On the right front, overlock buttonholes; on the left front, sew on buttons.
- Fold the belt piece in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch along the contour, leaving an opening in the middle, 10-15 cm long, for turning. Turn the belt right side out, turn under the allowances of the unstitched section inwards, and topstitch 0.7 cm from the edge around the perimeter of the belt.
- On the belt loop piece, overlock one long edge. Press the unoverlocked edge inwards, covering it with the overlock edge. Stitch a double seam, securing the long allowances. Cut the belt loop into 2 pieces. Stitch the belt loop to the back at the side seam. Thread the belt.
