Pattern

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: coat fabrics made of natural or blended fibers in contrasting colors. Also needed: fusible interfacing; lining fabric; raglan shoulder pads; 1 button; 1 inner button.

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the bottom of the garment - 3.5 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).

• From main fabric:
  • Back – 1 piece
  • Center front – 2 pieces
  • Side front – 2 pieces
  • Collar – 1 piece
  • Sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Belt – 1 piece
• From contrasting fabric:
  • Collar – 1 piece
  • Front facing – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece
  • Cuff – 2 pieces
  • Belt – 1 piece
• From lining fabric:
  • Back – 1 piece
  • Center front – 2 pieces
  • Side front – 2 pieces
  • Sleeve – 2 pieces

ATTENTION: back, front, and sleeve pieces from lining fabric are cut without considering the back neckline facing, front facing, and cuffs, respectively.

• FROM FUSIBLE INTERFACING: front facing, back neckline facing, collar, cuff.

Sewing Instructions

WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

1. Fuse interfacing to the front facing, back neckline facing, collar from contrasting fabric, and cuffs. Fuse the pocket area on the center and side front pieces.
2. Stitch darts on the center front pieces, press seam allowances upwards.
3. Attach pocket bags to the integrated pocket stays. Press seams towards the pocket bag. Attach side front pieces to the center front pieces, simultaneously stitching the pocket bags. On the side front piece, clip the seams at the pocket opening. Press pocket stays towards the center front, press open the princess seam and overcast from the bottom to the pocket.
4. Stitch side and shoulder seams, press seam allowances open. Overcast side seam allowances from the bottom to the waist.
5. Set in the collar from the main fabric into the back and front neckline. Press seam allowances open.
6. Stitch shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facing. Press seams open. Set in the collar from the contrasting fabric into the neckline of the front facings and back neckline facing. Press seam allowances open.
7. Place the front facing on the right side of the front piece, right side down, pin and stitch along the front edge, ends, and collar edge. Stitch the bottom edges of the front facings to the front piece strictly along the marked hemline, stopping 1.5 cm before the inner edge of the front facing. Trim seam allowances at corners. Turn the front edges to the right side, straighten seams. Overcast the bottom edge of the garment and press to the wrong side.
8. Fold the cuff with the sleeve right sides together and stitch along the bottom edge. Press seam allowances. Unfold the sleeve and cuff into one line and stitch the sleeve and cuff seam. Press seam allowances open, turn the cuff to the wrong side.
9. Set in sleeves into armholes according to notches. Insert shoulder pads.
10. On the lining fabric pieces, stitch and overcast seams and set in sleeves, similar to the main fabric pieces.
11. Turn up the bottom hem allowance of the lining twice and topstitch. Attach the lining to the inner edges of the front facings and back neckline facing. Start and end the stitching at half the width of the main garment's bottom hem. Secure the collar setting seams close to the seams.
12. Attach the lining to the inner edge of the cuff. Turn the coat right side out. Hem the bottom of the coat with blind stitches. Topstitch 0.7 cm from the edge of the front, ends, and collar edge.
13. On the right front, overcast a buttonhole, on the left front, sew on a button. Overcast a buttonhole and sew on a button on the inside.
14. Fold the belt piece right sides together and stitch, leaving an opening on the long side. Turn the belt right side out, turn in the seam allowances of the unstitched section, and topstitch 0.7 cm from the edge around the perimeter of the belt.