Collarless Blazer with Asymmetrical Draped Bow

Name: Collarless Blazer with Asymmetrical Draped Bow
Brand: Minerva Patterns
SKU: 4082
Price: 5.00 EUR
Availability: InStock

Pattern #4082

A hip-length fitted women's jacket with a collarless V-neckline, rounded front edges, a one-button closure and a double bow at the right front neckline. Fully lined. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: lightweight suiting in natural or blended fibres.

Tech. Description

Collarless Blazer with Asymmetrical Bow

A hip-length fitted women's jacket with a collarless V-neckline, rounded front edges, a one-button closure and a double bow at the right front neckline. Fully lined.

When To Wear

At the office over a blouse or fine knit, with a pencil skirt or straight trousers.
For daytime events in spring and autumn, where the bow at the neckline replaces a necklace or scarf.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Fitted, shaped by princess seams on the front and back and darts on the centre front and centre back pieces.

Length: Hip length.

Neckline: Collarless V-neckline, faced, with stay tape along the front neckline edge.

Closure: One button at the waist, buttonhole on the right front.

Front: Front edges curve away below the button into a rounded hem. On the right front, an upper bow in the main fabric and a lower bow in silk are sewn into the neckline seam; a tab is topstitched to the front, wrapped around the bow and caught into the neckline edge.

Sleeves: Long two-piece set-in sleeves with eased caps and a 3.5 cm hem allowance.

Back: Centre back seam and princess seams.

Finishing: Front edges, neckline and hem finished with facings; front edge understitched 0.2 cm from the seam. Thin shoulder pads.

Lining: Full lining with two-piece lined sleeves, attached to the facings and turned through an opening in the left sleeve elbow seam.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. Princess seams with darts, two-piece set-in sleeves, a bagged lining joined to facings, and a two-layer bow with a wrapped tab.

Fabric Recommendations

Lightweight suiting in natural or blended fibres. For the lower bow, a firm, dense silk as a companion fabric.

Additional Supplies

Lining fabric
Fusible interfacing (fronts, facings, lower bow, sleeve hems) and fusible stay tape for the front neckline
Thin shoulder pads
1 button

Cutter's Must

If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for sleeve hem 3.5 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).

From main fabric:
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Side front – 2 pieces
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
- Upper bow – 1 piece
- Bow Tab — 1 piece
- Back hem facing — 1 piece
From silk:
- Lower bow — 1 piece
From lining fabric:
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Side front – 2 pieces
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve – 2 pieces

Attention: back and front pieces from lining fabric are cut deducting the width of the back neckline facing, back hem facing, and front facing respectively. From fusible interfacing: front facing, back neckline facing, back hem facing, center front, side front, lower bow, sleeve hem.

Sewing Instructions

When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!

Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces. Along the front neckline, apply an additional fusible stay tape.
Stitch the dart on the center front piece. Press the dart upwards. Stitch and press open the princess seam on the front.
Stitch the dart on the center back piece. Stitch and press open the back princess seams. Stitch and press open the center back seam. Stitch and press open the jacket's shoulder and side seams.
Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facing. Attach the back hem facing to the front facing. Press seams open.
Fold the bow tab piece in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch along the long side. Turn the tab right side out and press, centering the seam.
Fold the upper and lower bow pieces right sides together and stitch the upper and lower sides. Turn the pieces right side out and press. Overlap the bows and secure them along the raw edge.
Place the tab on the front according to the markings, with the bridge seam facing up and the free end directed towards the armhole. Topstitch the bow tab to the front according to the markings. Attach the bows to the right front neckline. Wrap the bridge around the bow and attach the free end to the neckline edge.
Stitch and press open the sleeve's elbow seam, easing the upper sleeve and matching notches. Press up the sleeve hem. Turn back the hem allowance, stitch and press open the sleeve's front seam.
Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching notches and easing the sleeve cap at the top. Attach shoulder pads.
On the lining pieces, stitch the seams and set the sleeves, leaving an opening for turning in the left elbow seam. Attach the lining to the inner edges of the front facings and back facings.
Place the front facing with its back facing onto the right side of the front piece, right side down, pin, and stitch along the front edge, front neckline, back neckline, and jacket hem. Stitch from the front side. Topstitch the seam allowance of the front edge to the front facing. The stitching should be 0.2 cm from the seam.
Attach the lining to the sleeve hem. Turn the jacket right side out. Stitch the technical opening closed.
On the right front, make a buttonhole; on the left front, sew on the button.