Tailored One Button Blazer

Name: Tailored One Button Blazer
Brand: Minerva Patterns
SKU: 4084
Price: 5.00 EUR
Availability: InStock

Pattern #4084

A fitted, hip-length women's jacket with princess seams, a collarless round neckline and a one-button closure. Narrow double-layer lapels are set into a cut-out on the centre front pieces and run along the deep V of the front opening. Fully lined. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: suiting in natural or blended fibres.

Tech. Description

Tailored One Button Blazer

When To Wear

At the office, as the jacket of a skirt or trouser suit.
Over a shell top or fine knit for meetings and daytime events, spring to autumn.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Fitted, shaped by princess seams from the armholes on the front and back.

Length: Hip length, front corners rounded at the hem.

Neckline: Collarless round neckline finished with a shaped neckline facing that shows as a band around the neck.

Front: Lapels cut from two layers, stitched along the outer edge, turned and secured into the neckline and the cut-out of the centre front piece, so they lie flat beside the V-opening.

Closure: One button at the waist, buttonhole on the right front.

Sleeves: Long two-piece set-in sleeves with eased caps and a 3.5 cm hem allowance.

Back: Centre back seam and princess seams.

Finishing: Front edges, neckline and hem finished with facings, including a back hem facing; the front edge seam allowance is understitched to the facing 0.2 cm from the seam. Shoulder pads.

Lining: Full lining with lined sleeves, attached to the facings and turned through an opening in the left sleeve elbow seam.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. Lapels inserted into a cut-out, a faced neckline, two-piece set-in sleeves and a bagged lining.

Fabric Recommendations

Suiting in natural or blended fibres.

Additional Supplies

Lining fabric
Fusible interfacing (front facings, neckline facings, lapels, back hem facing)
Shoulder pads
1 button

Cutter's Must

If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for sleeve bottom - 3.5 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!

From main fabric:
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Side front – 2 pieces
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 2 pieces
- Front neckline facing – 4 pieces
- Lapel – 4 pieces
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Under sleeve – 2 pieces
- Back hem facing – 1 piece
From lining fabric:
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Side front – 2 pieces
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Under sleeve – 2 pieces
Attention: back and front pieces from lining fabric are cut deducting the width of the back hem facing and front facing.
From fusible interfacing:
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Front neckline facing – 2 pieces
- Lapel – 2 pieces
- Back hem facing – 1 piece

Sewing Instructions

Fuse interfacing to the pieces.
Fold lapel pieces right sides together and stitch the outer edge. Clip seam allowances, turn lapels right side out, shape and press. Place lapels on the center front piece and secure along the neckline edge and the cutout of the center front piece.
Stitch and press open the front princess seams. Stitch and press open the back princess seams. Stitch and press open the center back seam. Stitch and press open the shoulder and side seams of the jacket.
Stitch the shoulder edges of the outer back and front facings, press seam allowances open. Attach the facing to the neckline, clip seam allowances, press towards the facing.
Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the sleeve, easing the upper sleeve and matching notches. Press up the sleeve hem. Turn back the hem, stitch and press open the front sleeve seam.
Set sleeves into armholes, matching notches, easing the sleeve cap at the top. Attach shoulder pads.
Stitch the shoulder edges of the inner neckline facings, press seam allowances open. Stitch the hem facing to the front facings, press seam allowances open.
On the lining pieces, stitch the seams and set in the sleeves, leaving an opening for turning in the left elbow seam. Attach the front facings to the lining. Attach the facing to the lining neckline.
Place the front facing with the facing right side down on the right side of the front piece, pin and stitch the front edge, front neckline, back neckline, and jacket hem. Stitching is done from the front piece side. Topstitch the seam allowance of the front edge to the front facing. The stitching is placed 0.2 cm from the seam.
Attach the lining to the sleeve hem. Turn the jacket right side out. Stitch the technical opening closed.
On the right front, make a buttonhole, on the left front, sew on a button.