Cropped Double Breasted 3/4 Sleeve Blazer
Introducing a sophisticated women's sewing pattern for a cropped double-breasted blazer, featuring elegant 3/4 sleeves and a polished, structured silhouette.
When To Wear
This versatile blazer is perfect for adding a touch of polish to various outfits, suitable for:
- Business Casual: Elevates professional attire with its structured yet modern design.
- Smart Casual Outings: Ideal for lunches, gallery visits, or casual evenings, offering a chic layer.
- Transitional Seasons: Provides elegant coverage for spring and autumn without being too heavy.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: a tailored, cropped silhouette that finishes neatly at the natural waist, offering a modern and chic profile.
Collar & Lapel: Features a classic notched lapel collar, creating a sharp and sophisticated neckline.
Closure: Double-breasted front secured with two visible exterior buttons and one interior button for a clean finish.
Sleeves: Elegant 3/4 length set-in sleeves, providing a balanced and refined arm line.
Back: a clean back panel with a center seam, ensuring a smooth and tailored fit.
Hem: a subtly curved front hem that dips slightly, adding a graceful touch to the cropped design.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Requires precise tailoring skills for lapel construction, lining insertion, and a structured finish.
Fabric Recommendations
For a structured and refined blazer, choose suiting fabrics that hold their shape well:
- Suiting fabrics made from natural or blended fibers
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing
- Lining fabric
- Shoulder pads
- 2 exterior buttons
- 1 interior button
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, seam allowances are included. If the contour is single, the patterns are without seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for back bottom – 4 cm, for sleeve bottom – 3 cm. Attention! First of all, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).
- From main fabric:
- Back – 2 pieces
- Front – 2 pieces
- Collar - 2 pieces
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Collar - 1 piece
- From lining fabric:
- Back – 2 pieces
- Front – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- Interface the pieces with fusible interfacing. On the front, along the lapel roll line, apply a 1 cm wide grainline strip (from fusible interfacing).
- Stitch the darts on the back, press the fullness towards the center. Stitch and press open the center back seam.
- Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the jacket.
- Place the upper collar on the undercollar, right sides together, and stitch along the ends and outer edge. Start and end the stitching strictly at the marked collar attachment seam line. Trim the seams at the curves, clip at the mark. Turn the collar right side out, shape, and press.
- Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facing.
- Place the front facing on the right side of the front, right side down, pin, and stitch along the front edge. Stitch upwards to the notch indicating the end of the collar attachment. Trim seams at curves. Topstitch the seam allowance of the front edge: in the buttoning area – onto the front facing, in the lapel area – onto the jacket front. Position the stitching 0.2 cm from the seam. Turn the front edges right side out, shape the seams.
- Attach the undercollar to the jacket neckline, and the upper collar to the back neckline facing and front facing, clipping at the corner. Clip the collar attachment seam allowances, press open, and secure close to the seams.
- Fold the attached front facing down at the side seam and stitch the side seams. Press the back allowance upwards.
- Stitch the sleeve seam. Press allowances open. Set the sleeves into the armholes. Press allowances.
- Stitch the lining pieces, leaving a technological opening in the left sleeve seam. Attach the lining to the back neckline facing, front facing, and bottom of the back. Attach the lining to the bottom of the sleeve. Turn the jacket right side out through the technological opening. Sew up the opening.
- Make buttonholes and sew on buttons. Sew on the inner button.
