Jacket with Gathered Peplum
A women's fitted jacket with long two-piece sleeves, a stand collar and an edge-to-edge front fastened with four hooks and loops. Below the waist seam, a gathered peplum runs around the front and back.
When To Wear
- For the office over a blouse or fine knit top, with a straight skirt or trousers.
- In spring and autumn over a dress, as a short jacket that ends at the high hip.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted bodice shaped by darts on the fronts and back, with a gathered peplum below the waist seam.
Length: Peplum ends at the high hip.
Collar: Two-layer stand collar with rounded front ends, set into the neckline.
Sleeves: Long two-piece set-in sleeves with an eased cap; 3 cm hem allowance at the wrist. Shoulder pads.
Closure: Edge-to-edge front with four hooks on the right front and loops on the left. A folded placket set between the left front and its facing sits under the opening.
Back: Upper back in two pieces with a centre back seam and darts; lower back cut in one piece on the fold and gathered into the waist seam.
Finishing: Front facings and back neck facing stitched along the front edges, neckline and lower edge; darts trimmed to 1 cm and pressed toward the centre; 2 cm jacket hem and sleeve hems turned and topstitched.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Darts, a gathered peplum seam, a stand collar, two-piece sleeves with an eased cap, facings worked together with an inserted placket, and hooks and loops.
Fabric Recommendations
Suiting fabrics made from natural or blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing (placket, front facings, back neck facing, stand collar)
- Shoulder pads
- 4 hooks with loops
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Upper Back – 2 pieces
- Lower Back – 1 piece (on fold)
- Upper Front – 2 pieces
- Placket – 1 piece
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Stand Collar – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Placket – 1 piece
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- Stand Collar – 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the corresponding pieces.
- Stitch the darts on the Upper Back pieces, trim the dart depths to 1 cm, press towards the center and overlock. Stitch the center back seam, press the allowances to the left side and overlock.
- Along the upper edge of the Lower Back, stitch with a loosened upper thread and gather. Stitch the Upper Back and Lower Back together, press the allowances upwards and overlock.
- Trim the dart depths on the Upper Front pieces to 1 cm. Stitch the darts, press the depths towards the center, overlock.
- Along the upper edge of the lower front (peplum) section, stitch with a loosened upper thread and gather. Stitch the upper and lower front parts together, press the allowances upwards, overlock.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams, press the allowances towards the back, overlock.
- Place the Stand Collar pieces right sides together and stitch along the ends and upper edge. Notch the allowances at the corners, clip the curves, turn the Stand Collar right side out, shape, press. Attach the Stand Collar to the neckline.
- Fold the Placket in half lengthwise right side in and stitch the short ends. Turn the Placket right side out, shape, press.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the Back Neckline Facing and Center Front Facings and press them open. Overlock the outer edge. Place the facings on the jacket right sides together and stitch along the front edges, neckline and lower edge, inserting the Placket and the loops between the left Center Front Facing and the left front. Notch the allowances at the corners, clip the curves, turn the facings to the wrong side, shape, press. Tack the Back Neckline Facing to the shoulder seams and the center back seam.
- Stitch the elbow and front seams of the sleeve, press the allowances towards the Upper Sleeve, overlock. Set the sleeves into the armholes matching the notches, easing in the sleeve cap at the top; press the allowances and overlock. Attach the shoulder pads.
- Overlock the hem allowances of the jacket and sleeves, fold to the wrong side and topstitch.
- Sew the hooks onto the right front to correspond with the loops.
