Asymmetrical Zip Lapel Collar Jacket

Name: Asymmetrical Zip Lapel Collar Jacket
Brand: Minerva Patterns
SKU: 2673
Price: 5.00 EUR
Availability: InStock

Pattern #2673

A women's fully lined biker-style jacket with an asymmetric zip front: a separating zip is set into the left front princess seam, and the right front overlaps to it. It has wide lapels with a collar, princess seams front and back, and a hip band. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: suiting fabrics of natural or blended fibres.

Tech. Description

Asymmetrical Zip Lapel Collar Jacket

When To Wear

In spring and autumn over T-shirts, shirts and knitwear.
With jeans, trousers or a skirt; open, with the lapels laid back, or zipped up.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Semi-fitted, shaped by princess seams.

Length: To the hip, ending in a band.

Collar: Collar with lapels; the upper collar is set into the jacket neckline, the under collar into the facings.

Sleeves: Long one-piece set-in sleeves with darts; armhole seams topstitched 0.5 cm from the seam.

Closure: Separating zip: one half in the left front princess seam, the other on the right front edge, its lower end at the middle of the band.

Front: Princess seams topstitched 0.5 cm from the seam; front edges topstitched 0.5 to 0.7 cm from the edge.

Back: Centre back cut on the fold, with two princess seams topstitched 0.5 cm from the seam; hip band across the back.

Lining: Full lining, bagged to the band, front edges, lapels, collar and sleeve hems; turned through an opening in the right side seam.

Level Of Difficulty

Advanced. A separating zip inserted into a princess seam and enclosed by the band, a collar with lapels set into the jacket and the facings separately, and a fully bagged lining.

Fabric Recommendations

Suiting fabrics of natural or blended fibres.

Additional Supplies

Fusible interfacing (centre fronts, collar, front facings, back neck facing)
1 separating zip
Lining fabric

Cutter's Must

If the patterns have a double contour, seam allowances are included. If the contour is single, seam allowances are not included. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for sleeve bottom – 2 cm. Attention! First of all, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).

From main fabric:
- Center back – 1 piece on fold
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Side front – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Right placket – 1 piece
- Left placket – 1 piece
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Collar – 2 pieces
From fusible interfacing:
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Collar – 1 piece
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
From lining fabric:
- Center back – 1 piece on fold
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Front lining – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces

Attention: Back lining pieces are cut according to the main pattern pieces, subtracting the width of the back neckline facing.

Sewing Instructions

When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!

Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
Stitch the back princess seams, press seam allowances towards the center. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
Stitch the right front princess seam, press seam allowances towards the center. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
Stitch the side seams.
Attach the upper side of the right placket to the bottom of the main jacket. Attach the upper side of the left placket to the left front.
Stitch the left front princess seam, inserting the zipper. The bottom of the zipper is located in the middle of the placket width. Press seam allowances towards the center. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam. Attach the right of the zipper to the edge of the right front placket, with teeth facing away from the edge. The bottom of the zipper is located in the middle of the placket width.
Stitch the shoulder seams, press seam allowances open. Attach the upper collar to the neckline. Start and end the stitching strictly at the marked attachment line. Press seam allowances open.
Stitch the darts on the sleeve. Trim the dart depths, press seam allowances open. Set in the sleeves into the armholes, press seam allowances towards the main. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
Stitch the shoulder seams of the front facings and back neckline facing, press seam allowances open. Attach the under collar to the neckline of the front facing and back neckline facing. Start and end the stitching strictly at the marked attachment line. Press seam allowances open.
On the lining pieces, stitch the seams and set in the sleeves, leaving an opening in the right side seam. Press the lining seam allowances. Attach the lining to the front facings and back neckline facing, press the seam allowances. Fold the lining with the garment right sides together and stitch the bottom edge of the placket. Fold the placket up, enclosing the zipper. Stitch the front edges, lapels, collar, and bottom edge of the sleeve. Clip seam allowances at curves, trim at corners, turn pieces right side out. Secure the placket seam allowances together. Topstitch along the front edge 0.5 – 0.7 cm.
Stitch the opening in the side seam closed.