Stand Collar Peplum Jacket

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: suiting fabrics made from natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: lining fabric; fusible interfacing; shoulder pads; 6 buttons; decorative braid (approximate length indicated on the front pattern piece).

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for jacket bottom and sleeve bottom - 3 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

• From main fabric:
  • Upper back part – 2 pieces
  • Lower back part – 1 piece on fold
  • Upper front part – 2 pieces
  • Lower front part – 2 pieces
  • Sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Collar stand – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece
  • Front facing – 2 pieces
• From lining fabric:
  • Upper back part – 2 pieces
  • Lower back part – 1 piece on fold
  • Upper front part – 2 pieces
  • Lower front part – 2 pieces
  • Sleeve – 2 pieces
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Front facing – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece
  • Collar stand – 1 piece

ATTENTION! Back and front pieces from lining fabric are cut according to the main fabric pieces, minus the back and front neckline facings, respectively.

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
2. Stitch darts on back pieces, trim dart depths and press towards the center. Stitch the center back seam. Press seam allowances open.
3. Along the upper edge of the lower back part, stitch with a loosened upper thread and gather. Stitch the upper and lower back parts together. Press seam allowance upwards.
4. Stitch darts on front pieces, trim dart depths and press towards the center. Mark button placement on the left front edge. Topstitch decorative braid along the center line.
5. Along the upper edge of the lower front part, stitch with a loosened upper thread and gather. Stitch the upper and lower front parts together. Press seam allowance upwards.
6. Stitch shoulder and side seams, press seam allowances open.
7. Fold collar stand pieces right sides together and stitch along the upper edge. Clip seam allowances at curves, turn collar stand right side out, straighten, and press. Attach collar stand to the neckline.
8. Stitch and press open shoulder seams of back neckline facing and front facings. Place front facings with facing right side down onto the right side of the front, pin, and stitch the front edge, neckline, and lower corner of the front edge. Trim seams at corners. Topstitch the seam allowance of the front edge facing to the front facing. Position the stitching 0.2 cm from the seam. Turn front edges right side out, straighten seams. Press the bottom of the garment.
9. Stitch sleeve seam, press seam allowances open. Set sleeves into armholes according to notches, press seam allowances. Attach shoulder pads.
10. Stitch lining pieces similarly to main fabric pieces, leaving an opening in the left sleeve seam. Attach lining to facing and front facings, press seam allowances towards the front facing. Attach lining to the bottom of the garment and sleeve bottom. Turn jacket right side out. Stitch the technical opening closed.
11. Buttonholes on the right front, sew buttons on the left front.