Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: suiting fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; shoulder pads; 1 button.
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: All seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the bottom of the garment and sleeve hem - 3 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST OF ALL, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical details). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH! ATTENTION! INSCRIPTIONS ON THE PATTERNS ARE MADE ON THE FACE SIDE.
- From main fabric:
- Right center back part – 1 piece
- Left center back part – 1 piece
- Side back part – 2 pieces
- Side front part – 2 pieces
- Left center front part – 1 piece
- Right center front part – 1 piece
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Left front facing – 1 piece
- Right front facing – 1 piece
- Collar – 1 piece
- Left front facing – 1 piece
- From fusible interfacing:
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Collar – 1 piece
- Front facing – 1 piece
- Left front facing – 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
- Stitch the back princess seams, overcast the allowances, and press towards the side part.
- Stitch the front princess seams, overcast the allowances, and press towards the side part.
- Stitch the shoulder seams, overcast the allowances, and press towards the back.
- Cut a bias strip 2.5 cm wide and 40 cm long for the tie. Fold the strip in half lengthwise with wrong sides together and stitch 0.5 cm from the fold. Turn the strip right side out and straighten the tie. Cut into 2 pieces.
- Stitch the side seams, inserting one part of the tie into the left side seam. Overcast the allowances and press towards the back.
- Stitch the shoulder seam of the back neckline facing and front facings. Press allowances open. Overcast the outer edge.
- Form pleats on the collar, with depths directed downwards. Place the collar and the right center front pieces right sides together and stitch the lapel. End the stitching strictly at the front facing attachment line. Clip the shoulder seam allowance, attach the collar to the back neckline. Stitch the center back seam, enclosing the center collar seam. Overcast the allowance and press to the left side.
- Attach the front facings and facings to the top of the garment, inserting the right part of the tie. Clip the front edge allowances, turn the facing and front facings to the wrong side and press. Secure the facing to the top at the shoulder seam.
- Stitch the sleeve seam. Overcast the allowance and press towards the back part.
- Set the sleeves into the armholes according to the notches, easing the sleeve cap at the top. Overcast the allowance and press. Attach the shoulder pads.
- Overcast the bottom edge of the garment and sleeves. Fold the allowance to the wrong side and topstitch.
- Overcast the buttonhole and sew on the inner button.
