Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: suiting fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; lining fabric; 3 buttons.
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for sleeve bottom – 3 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- From main fabric:
- Center back part – 2 pieces
- Side back part – 2 pieces
- Side front part – 2 pieces
- Center front part – 2 pieces
- Belt — 1 piece on fold
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Upper sleeve part – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve part – 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Center back part – 2 pieces
- Side back part – 2 pieces
- Side front part – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve part – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve part – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Center front part – 2 pieces
- Collar – 1 piece
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Belt — 1 piece on fold
Note: the center back pieces are cut WITHOUT considering the width of the back neckline facing.
Sewing Instructions
- Interface pieces with fusible interfacing.
- Stitch back princess seams, press allowances towards the center. Stitch center back seam, press allowances open.
- Stitch front princess seams, press allowances towards the center.
- Stitch shoulder and side seams, press allowances open.
- Stitch back neckline facing to front facings, press allowances open.
- Fold collar pieces right sides together and stitch the outer edge and collar points. Clip allowances at the notch, turn collar right side out and press.
- Place the front facing on the right side of the front piece, right side down, pin and stitch along the front edge and bottom strictly along the marked line. Stitch upwards to the notch that defines the end of the collar attachment. Trim the seams of the upper and lower corners of the front edge. Topstitch the front facing seam allowance: in the button placket area – onto the front facing, in the lapel area – onto the front piece. The stitching should be 0.2 cm from the seam. Turn the front edges right side out, smooth the seams.
- Attach the lower collar to the garment neckline, and the upper collar to the neckline edge of the back facing and front facing. Press seams open. Secure the stitching lines of the upper and lower collars together.
- Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the sleeve. Press up the sleeve hem. Stitch and press open the front seam of the sleeve. Set sleeves into armholes according to notches.
- On the lining fabric pieces, stitch seams and set sleeves. Attach lining to the inner edges of the front facings and the back neckline facing. Attach lining to the sleeve hem. Secure the main garment to the lining at the bottom edge.
- Fold the belt lengthwise in the middle, right sides together, and stitch the short sides. Start and end stitching strictly at the marked belt attachment line. Attach the outer side of the belt to the garment, fold the allowance of the inner side inwards and topstitch into the attachment seam.
- Make a buttonhole on the right front, sew a button on the left front. Make an inner buttonhole on the left front. Accordingly, sew an inner button on the right front. Sew a decorative button.
