Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: suiting fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; lining fabric; shoulder pads; 6 buttons. IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE PATTERNS INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES; IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the garment bottom and sleeve hem - 3 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST OF ALL, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
CUTTER'S MUST
- From main fabric:
- Center back part – 2 pieces
- Side back part – 2 pieces
- Lower back part – 1 piece
- Front panel – 2 pieces
- Lower front panel – 2 pieces
- Collar — 2 pieces
- Front facing — 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Upper sleeve part – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve part – 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Center back part – 2 pieces
- Side back part – 2 pieces
- Lower back part – 1 piece
- Front panel – 2 pieces
- Lower front panel – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve part – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve part – 2 pieces
Lining pieces are cut according to the main fabric pieces, minus the width of the back neckline facing and front facing.
- From fusible interfacing:
- Front panel – 2 pieces
- Lower front panel – 2 pieces
- Collar — 1 piece
- Front facing — 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
- Interface the pieces with fusible interfacing.
- Stitch the back princess seams, press allowances towards the center. Stitch the center back seam, press allowances open. Stitch the upper and lower back parts, press allowances downwards.
- Stitch the darts on the front panel pieces, trim depth to 1 cm and press towards the center. Stitch the upper and lower front panel parts, press allowances downwards.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams of the garment, press allowances open.
- Place collar pieces right sides together and stitch along the ends and outer edge. Clip allowances at curves, trim at corners. Turn collar right side out, shape, and press. Attach collar to the neckline.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the front facings and back neckline facing, press allowances open. Place front facings with the garment right sides together and stitch along the front edges, the neckline edge (collar is positioned between the facing and the main garment), and the lower corner of the front edge. Clip allowances at curves, trim at corners, turn pieces right side out, and press.
- Stitch the elbow seam of the sleeve, press allowances open. Press up the sleeve hem. Stitch and press open the front sleeve seam. Set sleeves into armholes according to notches, easing the sleeve cap at the upper part. Attach shoulder pads.
- Stitch the lining pieces similarly to the main fabric pieces, leaving an opening in the left elbow seam of the sleeve. Attach the lining to the neckline facing and front facing. Turn the garment right side out, straighten seams.
- Mark and press up the garment hem. Finish the garment hem and sleeve hem with lining. Stitch the technical opening closed.
- Stitch a decorative topstitch along the upper part of the front edge according to markings. Work buttonholes on the right front panel, sew buttons on the left front panel. Work the upper and lower buttonholes on the left front panel, sew internal buttons on the right front panel.
