Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: suiting fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. YOU ALSO NEED: fusible interlining; shoulder pads; decorative buckle; 1 hidden button. IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE PATTERNS INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES; IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance – 1.2 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).
CUTTER'S MUST
WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- From main fabric:
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Lower back part 1 – 1 piece on fold
- Lower back part 2 – 1 piece on fold
- Side front – 2 pieces
- Center front right – 2 pieces
- Center front left – 2 pieces
- Lower front part 1 — 2 pieces
- Lower front part 2 — 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Upper sleeve part – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve part – 2 pieces
- Cuff — 2 pieces
- Strap – 1 piece
- From fusible interlining:
- Center front right – 2 pieces
- Center front left – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Cuff — 2 pieces
- Strap – 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interlining to the designated pieces.
- Stitch the back princess seams, press allowances towards the center, serge. Stitch the center back seam, press allowances to the left side, serge.
- Stitch the side seams of the upper garment, press allowances towards the back, serge. Stitch the side seams of the lower garment, press allowances towards the back, serge.
- Serge the lower edges of the front and back pieces, press to the wrong side and topstitch. Lay lower part 1 over lower part 2 and secure at the edges.
- Stitch the upper and lower parts of the garment, press allowances upwards and serge.
- Stitch the front princess seams, press allowances towards the center, serge.
- Stitch the shoulder seams, press allowances towards the back, serge.
- Serge the outer edges of the back neckline facing and the inner center front pieces (hereinafter referred to as front facings). Stitch the back neckline facing to the front facings, press allowances open. Place the front facings onto the garment right sides together and stitch the front edges, neckline edge, and the lower corner of the front edge. Clip allowances at curves, trim at corners, turn pieces right side out. Topstitch the front facings into the front princess seam.
- Cut the sleeve at the upper part, along the upper edge of the sleeve cap up to a 0.5 cm allowance on each side. Stitch the extension of the shoulder seam on the sleeve. Press allowances open, serge. Stitch the upper part of the sleeve cap to the sleeve, gradually tapering the stitching to nothing, serge. Stitch the elbow and front seams of the sleeve, press allowances and serge. Set sleeves into armholes, press allowances, serge. Insert shoulder pads.
- Stitch cuffs in pairs into a ring, press allowances open. Place cuffs right sides together and stitch the shaped edge. Clip allowances, turn cuff right side out, shape, press. Stitch the cuff from the wrong side to the bottom of the sleeve, press allowances, serge. Fold the cuff onto the sleeve.
- Fold the strap lengthwise in the middle right sides together and stitch the long and short edges. Turn the strap right side out, shape, press. Serge the short edge. Thread the strap through the buckle, stitch. Place the strap on the left side seam with the serged short side (buckle facing the back) and topstitch. Fold the strap onto the front and make a securing stitch along the side seam.
- Serge the inner buttonhole on the left front. Accordingly, sew on the inner button.
