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#2643
#2645

Cap Sleeve Round Neck Pleated Midi Dress

Pattern #2644

A women's below-the-knee dress with a princess-seamed bodice, a skirt shaped by inverted pleats on the front and back, a flat band topstitched over the waist seam and short cap sleeves. Closes with a concealed zipper in the centre back seam. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: dress fabrics from natural or blended fibres.

Tech. Description

Cap Sleeve Round Neck Pleated Midi Dress

A women's below-the-knee dress with a princess-seamed bodice, a skirt shaped by inverted pleats on the front and back, a flat band topstitched over the waist seam and short cap sleeves. Closes with a concealed zipper in the centre back seam.

When To Wear

  • At the office or at daytime events in spring and summer.
  • Under a cardigan or short jacket in cooler weather.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Fitted bodice with a waist seam; the skirt widens through the inverted pleats.

Length: Midi, below the knee.

Neckline: Round, finished with interfaced front and back facings.

Sleeves: Short cap sleeves set into the upper armhole; the lower armhole is finished with a bias binding 4 cm wide, folded in half and topstitched to the inside.

Closure: Concealed zipper in the centre back seam.

Back: Upper back with princess seams and a centre back seam; lower back in two pieces with inverted pleats.

Waist: An interfaced band with pressed-under edges is laid over the waist seam and topstitched.

Skirt: Lower front cut in one piece on the fold, with inverted pleats stitched into the waist seam.

Finishing: Seam allowances overlocked; hems of the dress and sleeves overlocked, turned up and topstitched.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. Princess seams, inverted pleats, a concealed zipper, neckline facings and a bias-bound lower armhole.

Fabric Recommendations

Dress fabrics from natural or blended fibres.

Additional Supplies

  • Fusible interfacing (waistband, neckline facings)
  • Concealed zipper

Cutter's Must

When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!

  • From main fabric:
    • Center back - 2 pieces
    • Side back – 2 pieces
    • Lower back – 2 pieces
    • Center front - 1 piece on fold
    • Side front - 2 pieces
    • Lower front - 1 piece on fold
    • Sleeve – 2 pieces
    • Belt — 1 piece on fold
    • Front neckline facing — 1 piece
    • Back neckline facing — 2 pieces
  • From fusible interfacing:
    • Belt — 1 piece on fold
    • Front neckline facing — 1 piece
    • Back neckline facing — 2 pieces

Sewing Instructions

  1. Fuse interfacing to relevant pieces.
  2. Stitch the princess seams of the upper back, press seam allowances towards the center, overlock. Form and secure the inverted pleats on the lower back. Stitch the upper and lower back parts, press seam allowances upwards and overlock.
  3. Stitch the princess seams of the upper front, press seam allowances towards the center and overlock. Form and secure the inverted pleats on the lower front. Stitch the upper and lower front parts, press seam allowances upwards and overlock.
  4. Stitch the side seams, press seam allowances towards the back and overlock.
  5. Press the longitudinal edges of the belt to the wrong side. Place the belt on the garment over the waist seam and topstitch.
  6. Overlock the center back edges separately. Stitch the center back seam from the zipper mark to the bottom, press seam allowances open. Insert the concealed zipper.
  7. Stitch the shoulder seams, press seam allowances towards the back and overlock.
  8. Stitch the shoulder seams of the neckline facings, press seam allowances open. Overlock the outer edge. Place the facing on the garment right sides together and stitch the neckline edge. Clip seam allowances at curves, turn pieces right side out, smooth, press. Secure the facing to the main garment at the shoulder seams and zipper tape.
  9. Overlock the lower edge of the sleeve, fold the allowance inwards and topstitch. Set in the sleeves into the armholes, press seam allowances and overlock.
  10. Cut a bias binding 4 cm wide and a length equal to the length of the lower armhole + 6 cm. Fold the bias binding in half lengthwise right side out and press. Place the binding on the armhole edge right side up, extending the ends, and stitch. Fold the binding to the wrong side, clip the seams and topstitch along the fold to the main piece. Press the seam.
  11. Overlock the lower edge of the garment, press to the wrong side and topstitch.

Features

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Individual Measurements

Please double-check the file format and paper size. Your pattern is drafted in exactly the format you select; a different format or paper size later is a new order.

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