Asymmetrical Wrap Tie Jacket with Pleated Collar

Name: Asymmetrical Wrap Tie Jacket with Pleated Collar
Brand: Minerva Patterns
SKU: 2643
Price: 5.00 EUR
Availability: InStock

Pattern #2643

A women's short fitted wrap jacket with princess seams, an asymmetric collar on the right front laid in pleats at the shoulder, and a narrow bias tie at the left waist. Long set-in sleeves with shoulder pads; an inner button holds the underlap. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: suiting fabrics made from natural or blended fibres.

Tech. Description

Asymmetrical Wrap Tie Jacket with Pleated Collar

When To Wear

For the office over a dress or with high-waisted trousers or a skirt.
In spring and autumn as a light jacket over a fine knit or a blouse.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Fitted, shaped by princess seams from the armholes at front and back.

Length: Short, ending just below the waist.

Collar: Asymmetric collar cut in one piece with pleats turned downwards, sewn to the right front as a lapel and set into the back neckline; its centre seam is enclosed in the centre back seam. The left side of the neckline is plain, finished with a facing.

Front: Right front wraps over the left; separate right and left front pieces with front facings.

Closure: A bias-cut tie in two parts, one sewn into the left side seam and one into the right front edge, tied at the left waist; one inner button and buttonhole.

Sleeves: Long one-piece set-in sleeves, the cap eased at the top, with shoulder pads.

Back: Centre back seam and princess seams.

Finishing: Interfaced collar, facings and back neck facing; seams overlocked; garment and sleeve hems turned up and topstitched.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. An asymmetric pleated collar joined to the lapel and the centre back seam, facings on two different front edges, eased sleeve caps and shoulder pads.

Fabric Recommendations

Suiting fabrics made from natural or blended fibres.

Additional Supplies

Fusible interfacing (collar, front facing, left front facing, back neck facing)
Shoulder pads
1 button

Cutter's Must

If the patterns have a double contour, seam allowances are included. If the contour is single, seam allowances are not included. Seam allowances: All seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the bottom of the garment and sleeve hem - 3 cm. Attention! First of all, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical details). When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match! Attention! Inscriptions on the patterns are made on the face side.

From main fabric:
- Right center back – 1 piece
- Left center back – 1 piece
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Side front – 2 pieces
- Left center front – 1 piece
- Right center front – 1 piece
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Left front facing – 1 piece
- Right front facing – 1 piece
- Collar – 1 piece
- Left front neckline facing – 1 piece
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
From fusible interfacing:
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Collar – 1 piece
- Front facing – 1 piece
- Left front neckline facing – 1 piece

Sewing Instructions

Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
Stitch the back princess seams, overlock the allowances, and press towards the side.
Stitch the front princess seams, overlock the allowances, and press towards the side.
Stitch the shoulder seams, overlock the allowances, and press towards the back.
Cut a bias strip 2.5 cm wide and 40 cm long for the tie. Fold the strip in half lengthwise with wrong sides together and stitch 0.5 cm from the fold. Turn the strip right side out and straighten the tie. Cut into 2 pieces.
Stitch the side seams, inserting one of the tie into the left side seam. Overlock the allowances and press towards the back.
Stitch the shoulder seam of the back neckline facing and front facings. Press allowances open. Overlock the outer edge.
Form pleats on the collar, with depths directed downwards. Place the collar and the right center front pieces right sides together and stitch the lapel. End the stitching strictly at the front facing attachment line. Clip the shoulder seam allowance, attach the collar to the back neckline. Stitch the center back seam, enclosing the center collar seam. Overlock the allowance and press to the left side.
Attach the front facings and facings to the top of the garment, inserting the right of the tie. Clip the front edge allowances, turn the facing and front facings to the wrong side and press. Secure the facing to the top at the shoulder seam.
Stitch the sleeve seam. Overlock the allowance and press towards the back.
Set the sleeves into the armholes according to the notches, easing the sleeve cap at the top. Overlock the allowance and press. Attach the shoulder pads.
Overlock the bottom edge of the garment and sleeves. Fold the allowance to the wrong side and topstitch.
Make the buttonhole and sew on the inner button.