Cropped Gathered Yoke Jacket

Gathered Yoke Jacket with Stand Collar and Structured Waistband

Introducing a women’s sewing pattern for a softly structured jacket featuring gathered front and back panels, a stand collar, and a defined waistband — Romantic Volume with Controlled Tailoring Structure.

When To Wear

This jacket is designed as a statement yet wearable garment, suitable for:

Casual Elevated Styling
A structured yet soft jacket ideal for everyday wear with a refined, feminine silhouette.

Transitional Outerwear
Perfect as a lightweight jacket for spring and autumn, offering both comfort and shape.

Soft Tailoring Concepts
Suitable for designers exploring the balance between volume and structure through gathered construction.

Key Design Features

Silhouette
Fitted at the waist with controlled volume through the bodice created by gathers, forming a softly bloused effect.

Collar
Stand collar constructed with interfacing, providing structure and framing the neckline.

Closure
Center front button closure with multiple buttons, emphasizing vertical structure and clean alignment.

Yoke Construction
Front and back yokes with gathered lower sections, creating volume and soft shaping across the upper body.

Sleeves
Long set-in sleeves with gentle shaping, finished with cuffs and button closures.

Waistband
Structured waistband anchoring the volume of the upper section and defining the silhouette.

Pockets
Welt pockets integrated into the front, maintaining a clean appearance while adding functionality.

Level Of Difficulty

Advanced. This pattern requires confident sewing skills, including accurate gathering techniques, welt pocket construction, collar assembly, and precise alignment of structured and gathered elements.

Fabric Recommendations

Choose fabrics that support both structure and soft gathering:

• Corduroy fabrics
• Cotton or cotton-blend fabrics
• Lightweight structured fabrics with body

These materials allow the garment to hold its shape while forming soft gathers.

Additional Supplies

• Fusible interfacing
• Lining fabric
• 9 buttons

Cutter’s Must

From Main Fabric:

1. Back – 1 piece (cut on fold)
2. Back Yoke – 1 piece
3. Front Yoke – 2 pieces
4. Front – 2 pieces
5. Stand Collar – 2 pieces
6. Waistband (marked on pattern as "Placket") – 1 piece
7. Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
8. Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
9. Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
10. Cuff – 2 pieces
11. Welt – 2 pieces
12. Bigger Pocket Bag – 2 pieces

From Lining Fabric:

Smaller Pocket Bag – 2 pieces

From Fusible Interfacing:

1. Stand Collar – 1 piece
2. Placket – 1 piece
3. Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
4. Cuff – 2 pieces
5. Welt – 2 pieces

Important Information

Before cutting your fabric:

• Print and lay out pattern pieces to determine yardage.
• Check mirrored pieces, notches, and grainlines.
• For patterned fabrics, align carefully for symmetry.

Assembly Instructions

1. Interfacing

Apply fusible interfacing to the required pattern pieces.

2. Welt Pocket

Mark and apply fusible interfacing to the pocket placement area on the Front.

Fold the Welt lengthwise, wrong sides together, and press.

Topstitch the Smaller Pocket Bag onto the inner side of the Welt.

Attach the Welt to the Front along the lower marked pocket line.

Attach the Bigger Pocket Bag to the Front along the upper marked pocket line.

Finish stitching exactly at the short marking lines.

Cut the pocket opening.

Make angled cuts 1–1.5 cm from the pocket ends.

Turn the Welt and Bigger Pocket Bag to the wrong side through the opening.

Secure the pocket ends from the wrong side with double backstitching at the base of the corners.

Stitch the pocket bag edges together and overlock.

3. Yoke and Gathering

Sew a gathering stitch along the upper edge of the Back with reduced upper thread tension and gather.

Attach the Back to the Back Yoke, press the seam allowances upward and overlock.

Topstitch along the seam at 0.5 cm.

Sew a gathering stitch along the upper edge of the Front with reduced upper thread tension and gather.

Attach the Front to the Front Yoke, press the seam allowances upward and overlock.

Topstitch along the seam at 0.5 cm.

4. Center Front Facing

Overlock the outer edge of the Center Front Facing.

Place the Center Front Facing and the Front right sides together and stitch along the front edge.

Press the seam allowances, turn the Center Front Facing to the wrong side, and secure it to the garment along the neckline and hem edges.

5. Shoulder and Side Seams

Stitch the shoulder and side seams, press the seam allowances toward the Back, and overlock.

6. Stand Collar

Place the Stand Collar pieces right sides together and stitch along the outer edge.

Begin and end stitching exactly at the marked collar attachment line.

Clip the seam allowances.

Turn the Stand Collar right side out, shape, and press.

Attach the outer Stand Collar to the neckline, press the seam allowances toward the collar.

Turn the seam allowance of the inner side to the wrong side and topstitch in the seam of attachment.

7. Waistband (Placket)

Fold the Waistband (Placket) lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the short edges.

Start and finish stitching exactly at the marked line for attaching the placket.

Turn the Waistband (Placket) right side out, shape, and press.

Sew a gathering stitch along the lower edge of the garment with reduced upper thread tension and gather.

Attach the outer side of the Waistband (Placket) to the garment, press the seam allowances toward the placket.

Turn the seam allowance of the inner side to the wrong side and topstitch in the seam of attachment.

8. Sleeves

Overlock the elbow edges of the Upper Sleeve and Lower Sleeve separately.

Stitch the elbow seam from the sleeve cap to the marking, clip the seam allowances at the marking.

From the sleeve cap to the marking, press the seam allowances and topstitch along the seam at 0.5 cm.

From the marking to the hem, press the seam allowances open and topstitch along both edges at 0.1 cm.

Stitch and press open the front seam of the sleeve.

Sew a gathering stitch along the sleeve cap with reduced upper thread tension and gather.

Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching notches.

9. Cuffs

Fold the Cuff pieces lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the short edges.

Begin and end stitching exactly at the marked cuff attachment line.

Turn the Cuff right side out, shape, and press.

Attach the outer side of the Cuff to the sleeve hem, press the seam allowances toward the cuff.

Turn the seam allowance of the inner side to the wrong side and topstitch in the seam of attachment.

10. Buttonholes and Buttons

Work buttonholes on the right Front, sew buttons on the left Front.

Work buttonholes and sew buttons on the Cuff and Stand Collar.