Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: corduroy fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. YOU ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; lining fabric; 9 buttons.
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- From main fabric:
- Back – 1 piece on fold
- Back yoke – 1 piece
- Front yoke – 2 pieces
- Front – 2 pieces
- Collar stand - 2 pieces
- Placket – 1 piece
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Welt – 2 pieces
- Large pocket bag – 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Small pocket bag – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Collar stand – 1 piece
- Placket – 1 piece
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Cuff - 2 pieces
- Welt – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Interface the pieces with fusible interfacing.
- Mark and interface the pocket placement. Press the welt piece in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. Stitch the small pocket bag to the inner side of the welt. Stitch the welt to the front along the lower pocket marking line. Stitch the large pocket bag to the front along the upper pocket marking line. End the stitching at the short marking lines. Cut the pocket opening. Make diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket. Turn the welt and large pocket bag to the wrong side through the opening. Secure the pocket ends from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Stitch the pocket bag edges, overcast.
- Along the upper edge of the back piece, stitch with loosened upper thread and gather. Stitch the back to the back yoke, press seam allowances upwards and overcast. Topstitch along the seam at 0.5 cm. Along the upper edge of the front piece, stitch with loosened upper thread and gather. Stitch the fronts to the front yokes, press seam allowances upwards and overcast. Topstitch along the seam at 0.5 cm.
- Overcast the outer edge of the front facing. Place the front facing and front piece right sides together and stitch the front edge. Press seam allowances, fold the front facing to the wrong side and secure to the main piece along the neckline and bottom edge.
- Stitch shoulder and side seams, press seam allowances towards the back and overcast.
- Place collar stand pieces right sides together and stitch the outer edge. Start and end stitching strictly at the marked collar stand attachment line. Clip seam allowances. Turn the collar stand right side out, shape, and press. Stitch the outer collar stand to the neckline, press seam allowances towards the collar stand. Press the seam allowance of the inner side to the wrong side and topstitch into the attachment seam.
- Fold the placket piece in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the short sides. Start and end stitching precisely at the marked placket attachment line. Turn the placket right side out, shape, and press. Along the bottom edge of the garment, stitch with loosened upper thread and gather. Stitch the outer side of the placket to the garment, press seam allowances towards the placket. Press the seam allowance of the inner side to the wrong side and topstitch into the attachment seam.
- Overcast the elbow edges of the sleeve separately. Stitch the elbow seam of the sleeve from the cap to the mark, clip seam allowances at the mark. On the section from the cap to the mark, press seam allowances and topstitch along the seam at 0.5 cm. On the section from the mark to the bottom, press seam allowances open and topstitch along the edges at 0.1 cm. Stitch and press open the front sleeve seam. Along the cap, stitch with loosened upper thread and gather. Stitch sleeves into armholes according to notches.
- Fold cuff pieces in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the short sides. Start and end stitching strictly at the marked cuff attachment line. Turn the cuff right side out, shape, and press. Stitch the outer side of the cuff to the bottom of the sleeve, press seam allowances towards the cuff. Press the seam allowance of the inner side to the wrong side and topstitch into the attachment seam.
- On the right front, overcast buttonholes, on the left - sew on buttons. Overcast buttonholes and sew on buttons on cuffs and collar stand.
