Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: dress fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; a concealed zipper.
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THEY INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm; hem allowance for the dress bottom and sleeve bottom – 2 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).
- From main fabric:
- Upper center back piece - 2 pieces
- Upper side back piece - 2 pieces
- Lower center back piece - 2 pieces
- Lower side back piece - 2 pieces
- Back side panel - 2 pieces
- Upper center front piece - 2 pieces
- Upper side front piece - 2 pieces
- Lower center front piece – 1 piece
- Lower side front piece – 2 pieces
- Front side panel – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Collar — 2 pieces
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- From fusible interfacing:
- Collar — 1 piece
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
- Stitch the princess seams of the upper back, press allowances towards the center, serge. On the lower side back piece, create and secure the pleats. Stitch the back side panel and lower side back piece, press allowances upwards, serge. Stitch the princess seams of the lower back, press allowances towards the center, serge. Stitch the upper and lower back pieces, press allowances upwards and serge.
- Serge the center back edges separately on each piece. Stitch the center back seam from the neckline to the first mark and from the second mark to the bottom edge, press allowances open. Insert the concealed zipper.
- Stitch the princess seams of the upper front, press allowances towards the center, serge.
- Stitch the shoulder seams. Serge allowances and press towards the back.
- Fold the collar pieces right sides together and stitch along the ends and outer edge. Start and end the stitching strictly at the marked collar attachment line. Trim allowances at corners, clip at the mark, turn the collar right side out, shape, and press.
- Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facing. Serge the outer edge.
- Place the front facing on the right side of the front piece, right side down, pin and stitch along the front edge and lapel corner. Stitch upwards to the notch indicating the end of the collar attachment. Trim seams at corners. Turn the front edges right side out, shape the seams.
- Stitch the undercollar to the dress neckline, and the upper collar to the neckline of the back facing and front facing. Press open the collar attachment seam allowances and secure close to the seams.
- Overlap the right front piece over the left, align at the center line and secure at the bottom edge.
- On the lower side front piece, create and secure the pleats. Stitch the front side panel and lower side front piece, press allowances upwards, serge. Stitch the princess seams of the lower front, press allowances towards the center, serge. Stitch the upper and lower front pieces, press allowances upwards and serge.
- Stitch the side seams, press allowances towards the back and serge.
- Stitch the sleeve seam, press allowances towards the back and serge. Set sleeves into armholes, press allowances and serge.
- Serge the hem allowance of the dress bottom and sleeve bottom, press to the wrong side and hem with blind stitches.
