Cropped Gathered Yoke Jacket

Gathered Yoke Jacket with Stand Collar and Hem Band

A women's cropped jacket with gathers below front and back yokes, drawn into a buttoned band at the lower edge. Stand collar, button front, two-piece sleeves with gathered caps and buttoned cuffs, single-welt pockets.

When To Wear

• Spring and autumn as a light outer layer, over a blouse or fine knit.
• With high-waisted trousers, jeans or skirts that meet the cropped length.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Cropped and blousy: the fullness from the yokes is gathered again into the lower band.

Collar: Interfaced stand collar in two layers, closed with a button.

Front: Button front with buttonholes on the right front and separate front facings; the front fastening runs through the stand collar and the lower band.

Back: Back yoke and a back cut on the fold, gathered into the yoke seam.

Sleeves: Two-piece set-in sleeves with a gathered cap. The elbow seam is topstitched 0.5 cm from the cap down to a mark; below the mark it is left open above the cuff, pressed open and edgestitched 0.1 cm on both sides. Interfaced cuffs closed with buttons.

Pockets: Single-welt pockets on the fronts, set slightly at an angle, with both pocket bags cut from lining and a self-fabric pocket underlay on the bigger bag.

Waist: The lower edge of the jacket is gathered into an interfaced band (placket) folded in half, its ends stitched closed.

Finishing: Yoke seams pressed upwards and topstitched 0.5 cm; inner layers of collar, band and cuffs stitched in the ditch of the attaching seam.

Level Of Difficulty

Advanced. Even gathering in three places (yokes, lower band, sleeve caps), single-welt pockets, a two-piece sleeve with an opening, a stand collar.

Fabric Recommendations

Corduroy from natural or blended fibres.

Additional Supplies

• Fusible interfacing (stand collar, placket, front facings, cuffs, welts, pocket area)
• Lining fabric for the pocket bags
• 9 buttons

Cutter’s Must

From Main Fabric:

1. Back – 1 piece (cut on fold)
2. Back Yoke – 1 piece
3. Front Yoke – 2 pieces
4. Front – 2 pieces
5. Stand Collar – 2 pieces
6. Waistband (marked on pattern as "Placket") – 1 piece
7. Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
8. Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
9. Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
10. Cuff – 2 pieces
11. Welt – 2 pieces
12. Pocket Underlay – rectangle as wide as the Bigger Pocket Bag × 6 cm – 2 pieces (1 per pocket)

From Lining Fabric:

1. Smaller Pocket Bag – 2 pieces
2. Bigger Pocket Bag – 2 pieces

From Fusible Interfacing:

1. Stand Collar – 1 piece
2. Placket – 1 piece
3. Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
4. Cuff – 2 pieces
5. Welt – 2 pieces

Important Information

Before cutting your fabric:

• Print and lay out pattern pieces to determine yardage.
• Check mirrored pieces, notches, and grainlines.
• For patterned fabrics, align carefully for symmetry.

Assembly Instructions

1. Interfacing

Apply fusible interfacing to the required pattern pieces.

2. Welt Pocket

Mark and apply fusible interfacing to the pocket placement area on the Front.

Fold the Welt lengthwise, wrong sides together, and press.

Topstitch the Smaller Pocket Bag onto the inner side of the Welt.

Attach the Welt to the Front along the lower marked pocket line.

Place the pocket underlay wrong side down on the right side of the Bigger Pocket Bag, aligning the upper raw edges; turn under its lower edge and edgestitch; baste the remaining edges.

Attach the Bigger Pocket Bag (with the pocket underlay) to the Front along the upper marked pocket line.

Finish stitching exactly at the short marking lines.

Cut the pocket opening.

Make angled cuts 1–1.5 cm from the pocket ends.

Turn the Welt and Bigger Pocket Bag to the wrong side through the opening.

Secure the pocket ends from the wrong side with double backstitching at the base of the corners.

Stitch the pocket bag edges together and overlock.

3. Yoke and Gathering

Sew a gathering stitch along the upper edge of the Back with reduced upper thread tension and gather.

Attach the Back to the Back Yoke, press the seam allowances upward and overlock.

Topstitch along the seam at 0.5 cm.

Sew a gathering stitch along the upper edge of the Front with reduced upper thread tension and gather.

Attach the Front to the Front Yoke, press the seam allowances upward and overlock.

Topstitch along the seam at 0.5 cm.

4. Center Front Facing

Overlock the outer edge of the Center Front Facing.

Place the Center Front Facing and the Front right sides together and stitch along the front edge.

Press the seam allowances, turn the Center Front Facing to the wrong side, and secure it to the garment along the neckline and hem edges.

5. Shoulder and Side Seams

Stitch the shoulder and side seams, press the seam allowances toward the Back, and overlock.

6. Stand Collar

Place the Stand Collar pieces right sides together and stitch along the outer edge.

Begin and end stitching exactly at the marked collar attachment line.

Clip the seam allowances.

Turn the Stand Collar right side out, shape, and press.

Attach the outer Stand Collar to the neckline, press the seam allowances toward the collar.

Turn the seam allowance of the inner side to the wrong side and topstitch in the seam of attachment.

7. Waistband (Placket)

Fold the Waistband (Placket) lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the short edges.

Start and finish stitching exactly at the marked line for attaching the placket.

Turn the Waistband (Placket) right side out, shape, and press.

Sew a gathering stitch along the lower edge of the garment with reduced upper thread tension and gather.

Attach the outer side of the Waistband (Placket) to the garment, press the seam allowances toward the placket.

Turn the seam allowance of the inner side to the wrong side and topstitch in the seam of attachment.

8. Sleeves

Overlock the elbow edges of the Upper Sleeve and Lower Sleeve separately.

Stitch the elbow seam from the sleeve cap to the marking, clip the seam allowances at the marking.

From the sleeve cap to the marking, press the seam allowances and topstitch along the seam at 0.5 cm.

From the marking to the hem, press the seam allowances open and topstitch along both edges at 0.1 cm.

Stitch and press open the front seam of the sleeve.

Sew a gathering stitch along the sleeve cap with reduced upper thread tension and gather.

Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching notches.

9. Cuffs

Fold the Cuff pieces lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the short edges.

Begin and end stitching exactly at the marked cuff attachment line.

Turn the Cuff right side out, shape, and press.

Attach the outer side of the Cuff to the sleeve hem, press the seam allowances toward the cuff.

Turn the seam allowance of the inner side to the wrong side and topstitch in the seam of attachment.

10. Buttonholes and Buttons

Work buttonholes on the right Front, sew buttons on the left Front.

Work buttonholes and sew buttons on the Cuff and Stand Collar.