Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: suiting fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interlining; lining fabric; shoulder pads; buckle; 1 button; 1 inner button.
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the bottom of the garment and sleeve hem - 3 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to consider paired and symmetrical pieces). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- From main fabric:
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Side front – 2 pieces
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Belt – 1 piece
- From lining fabric:
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Side front – 2 pieces
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
ATTENTION: Back and front lining pieces are cut according to the main pattern pieces, subtracting the width of the back neckline facing and front facing, respectively.
- From fusible interlining:
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Belt – 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interlining to the designated pieces.
- Fold the belt piece lengthwise in half, right sides together, and stitch along the long side and one short side. Turn the piece right side out, straighten, and press.
- Stitch the back princess seams, press allowances open. Stitch the center back seam, press allowances open. Stitch the front princess seams, press allowances open.
- Stitch and press open the side and shoulder seams.
- Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facings. Place the front facings with the back neckline facing on the right side of the front pieces, right side down, pin, and stitch the front edge, neckline, and lower corner of the front edge, inserting the belt on the right side. Trim seams at corners, clip curves. Topstitch the seam allowance of the front edge to the front facing. Position the stitching 0.2 cm from the seam. Turn the front edges right side out, straighten seams. Press the garment hem.
- Stitch the elbow dart on the sleeve (if provided by the model), press the dart depth upwards. Stitch the darts on the sleeve cap, press the depths. Press the sleeve hem. Turn back the hem allowance, stitch and press open the sleeve seam.
- Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching notches, easing the sleeve cap at the top. Attach shoulder pads.
- On the lining pieces, stitch the seams and set in the sleeves, leaving an opening for turning in the left elbow seam. Attach the lining to the inner edges of the front facings and the back neckline facing.
- Attach the lining to the garment hem and sleeve hem. Turn the jacket right side out. Stitch the technical opening closed.
- On the belt, make a buttonhole. Sew on the button. On the left front, make a buttonhole, and sew on a hidden button to match.
