Pencil Skirt with Button Front and Tie Belt
A women's knee-length pencil skirt with a raised, faced waist, a centre front opening with a cut-on button placket, a back vent and a tie belt worn through four belt loops. Fully lined.
When To Wear
- At the office with a tucked-in blouse or fine knit.
- In spring and autumn with a jacket, or in winter with tights and boots.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Close-fitting pencil shape that narrows slightly towards the hem.
Length: About knee length.
Waist: No separate waistband: the raised top edge is finished with front and back facings and topstitched. Darts front and back; four belt loops sewn on over the darts at waist level carry a separate tie belt.
Closure: Opens all the way down the centre front. The placket is cut in one with each front panel and interfaced; 7 buttons with buttonholes.
Back: Centre back seam with a vent at the hem, the vent edge topstitched.
Finishing: Hem overlocked, pressed up 3 cm and blind-stitched by hand.
Lining: Full lining with its own darts, sewn to the lower edge of the facings and tacked by hand along the side and centre back seams; lining hem turned twice by 1 cm and topstitched.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. A cut-on button placket finished together with the facings, a back vent, a lining joined to the facings, belt loops and a turned tie belt.
Fabric Recommendations
Suiting fabrics of natural or blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (facings, tie belt, front placket)
- 7 buttons
Cutter's Must
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- From main fabric:
- Back Skirt – 2 pieces
- Front Skirt – 2 pieces
- Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Back Facing – 2 pieces
- Waistband (tie belt) – 1 piece
- Belt-Loop – 1 piece (strip, cut into 4 loops after stitching)
- From lining fabric:
- Front Skirt Lining – 2 pieces
- Back Skirt Lining – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Back Facing – 2 pieces
- Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Waistband (tie belt) – 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the Front Facings, Back Facings and Waistband (tie belt). Also interface the cut-on placket of the Front Skirt.
- Stitch the darts on the Back Skirt pieces. Press the dart folds towards the center. Overlock the center back edges separately on each piece, simultaneously overlocking the vent. Stitch the center seam from the top to the edge of the vent. Press the seam allowances open, press the vent allowances towards the left side seam. Press the right side of the vent by 1 cm and topstitch. Secure the vent allowances with machine stitching.
- Stitch the darts on the Front Skirt pieces. Press the dart folds towards the center.
- Overlock one long edge of the Belt-Loop strip. Fold the strip into three layers and topstitch along the long sides. Cut the strip into 4 belt loops. Topstitch the belt loops onto the darts at waist level.
- Stitch the side seams, press the allowances towards the back and overlock.
- Stitch the darts on the lining. Press the dart folds towards the center. Stitch the side seams of the lining. Overlock the allowances and press towards the back. Stitch the center back seams. Press the allowance to the left side. Fold the bottom hem allowance twice by 1 cm and topstitch.
- Stitch the side seams of the Front and Back Facings, and the center back seam of the Back Facings. Press the allowances open. Attach the lining to the lower edge of the facings. Press the allowance downwards. Place the facing with the skirt right sides together and stitch the center front edges. Overlock the allowances and press towards the lining. Stitch the upper edge of the skirt and the cut-on placket. Clip the allowances at curves, trim at corners. Turn the facing and lining to the wrong side, straighten, and press. Press the center edges of the front. Topstitch on the right side, securing the inner side of the cut-on placket.
- Secure the lining to the skirt along the side and center back seams with hand stitches.
- Overlock the bottom edge of the garment, press to the wrong side and hem with blind stitches.
- Fold the Waistband (tie belt) in half lengthwise and stitch along the long and short sides, leaving an opening for turning. Trim the allowances at corners, turn to the right side and press. Close the opening.
- Make the buttonholes and sew on the buttons. Thread the tie belt through the belt loops.
