Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: denim fabrics made from natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; 7 buttons.
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS ARE WITHOUT SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- From main fabric:
- Upper center back – 1 piece on fold
- Lower center back – 1 piece
- Upper side back – 2 pieces
- Lower side back – 2 pieces
- Upper center front – 2 pieces
- Upper side front – 2 pieces
- Lower side front – 2 pieces
- Lower center front – 2 pieces
- Collar stand - 2 pieces
- Placket – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Collar stand – 1 piece
- Placket – 2 pieces
- Cuff - 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
- Stitch the upper and lower center back pieces. Press seam allowances upwards, overcast, and topstitch along the seam at 0.5 cm. Stitch the upper and lower side back pieces. Press seam allowances upwards, overcast, and topstitch along the seam at 0.5 cm. Stitch the back princess seams. Press seam allowances towards the side edge, overcast, and topstitch along the seam at 0.5 cm.
- Stitch the upper and lower center front pieces. Press seam allowances upwards, overcast, and topstitch along the seam at 0.5 cm. Stitch the upper and lower side front pieces. Press seam allowances upwards, overcast, and topstitch along the seam at 0.5 cm. Stitch the front princess seams. Press seam allowances towards the side edge, overcast, and topstitch along the seam at 0.5 cm.
- Stitch shoulder and side seams. Press seam allowances towards the back and overcast.
- Cut a strip from the main fabric at a 45° angle, 4 cm wide and equal to the length of the bottom edge. Fuse interfacing to the strip. Press the upper edge to the wrong side by 1 cm. Stitch the strip to the bottom edge of the garment, right sides together. Clip seam allowances, turn the strip to the wrong side, and topstitch onto the garment along the upper fold.
- Fold the plackets lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the upper and lower corners. Start and end stitching precisely at the marked placket attachment line. Turn the placket right side out, shape, and press. Stitch the outer side of the placket to the front. Press seam allowances towards the placket. Press the seam allowance of the inner side to the wrong side and stitch in the ditch of the attachment seam.
- Fold the collar stand pieces right sides together and stitch the outer edge. Start and end stitching strictly at the marked collar stand insertion seam line. Clip seam allowances. Turn the collar stand right side out, shape, and press. Stitch the outer collar stand to the neckline. Press seam allowances towards the collar stand. Press the seam allowance of the inner side to the wrong side and stitch in the ditch of the insertion seam.
- Overcast the elbow edges of the sleeve separately. Stitch the elbow seam of the sleeve from the sleeve cap to the mark. Clip seam allowances at the mark. From the sleeve cap to the mark, press seam allowances and topstitch along the seam at 0.5 cm. From the mark to the bottom, press seam allowances open and topstitch along the edges at 0.1 cm. Stitch and press open the front sleeve seam. Set sleeves into armholes, matching notches.
- Fold the cuff pieces lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the short sides. Start and end stitching strictly at the marked cuff attachment seam line. Turn the cuff right side out, shape, and press. Stitch the outer side of the cuff to the bottom of the sleeve. Press seam allowances towards the cuff. Press the seam allowance of the inner side to the wrong side and stitch in the ditch of the attachment seam.
- On the right front, overcast buttonholes. On the left front, sew on buttons. Overcast buttonholes and sew on buttons on the cuffs.
