Denim Pants with Button Closure
High-waisted women's denim trousers without a waistband, flared from the knee, with a front panel that buttons onto fly extensions along two vertical seams, three buttons on each side. Double topstitching throughout.
When To Wear
- Everyday wear with a tucked-in shirt or a short knit, so the button front shows.
- Autumn and spring with flat boots or heeled shoes under the flared hem.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted through the waist and hips, flaring from the knee to the hem.
Waist: High waist finished on the inside with interfaced facings (central front, side fronts, back), double topstitched along the top edge.
Closure: The central front part, cut in two halves with a centre front seam and a self facing, overlaps the side fronts; buttonholes on the central part, six shank buttons on two interfaced fly extensions.
Legs: Contoured seams run from the closure down to the hem, double topstitched; side seams double topstitched.
Pockets: Front pockets opening along the top edge of the side front, with a separate side piece and lining pocket bags; two topstitched patch pockets with a pointed base on the back.
Back: Waist darts, centre back seam sewn with a double stitch.
Finishing: 5 cm hem, double topstitched.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. A buttoned front panel with fly extensions and facings, front pockets, even double topstitching on denim.
Fabric Recommendations
Denim of natural or blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric (pocket bags)
- Fusible interfacing (waist facings, fly extensions, self facings of the central fronts)
- 6 shank buttons
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm, hem allowance 5 cm, upper allowance of back pocket – 3 cm. Attention! First of all, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need.
- From main fabric:
- Front half central – 2 pieces
- Front half side – 2 pieces
- Side – 2 pieces
- Back half – 2 pieces
- Front facing central – 1 piece
- Front facing side – 2 pieces
- Back facing – 1 piece
- Fly extension – 2 pieces
- Back pocket – 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- From fusible interfacing:
- Front facing central – 1 piece
- Front facing side – 2 pieces
- Back facing – 1 piece
- Fly extension – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- Fuse interfacing to the corresponding pieces, as well as to the self-faced facings of the central front halves.
- Stitch darts on the back halves, press seam allowances towards the center.
- Press the upper allowance of the back pocket to the wrong side, turn inwards and topstitch. Overlock the pocket edges, press allowances to the wrong side. Place the pocket according to markings on the back half and topstitch.
- Place pocket bag with front side half right sides together and stitch the upper edge. Turn pocket bag to the wrong side, straighten, press. Stitch a double topstitch along the upper edge. Place front side half on the side, stitch the lower edge of pocket bags, overlock. Secure pieces along the side and contoured edges.
- Overlock the contoured edges of the central and side front parts. Stitch the contoured seam from the fly down. Press seam allowances towards the center and stitch a double topstitch along the seam. Press the self-faced fly allowance to the wrong side. Overlock the fly extension all around. Press the fly extension in half lengthwise, right side out. Place the fly extension with the side of the front at the closure section and stitch the outer side, press allowances towards the fly extension.
- Stitch side seams, press allowances towards the back and overlock. Stitch a double topstitch along the seam. Stitch inseams of trousers, press allowances and overlock. Stitch the center seam of front and back halves with a double stitch, press allowances open and overlock.
- Overlock the lower edge of the central front facing. Turn the self-faced fly allowances to the right side and stitch the short sides of the central facing to them, press allowances open. Stitch the upper edge of the central front. Turn the closure and facing to the wrong side, straighten, press. Stitch front side facings to the back facing, press allowances open, overlock the lower edge. Place the facing with the upper edge of the trousers right sides together. Turn the fly extensions to the right side and stitch the short sides of the facing to them. Stitch the upper edge simultaneously with the upper corners of the fly extension, trim allowances at the corners, turn the facing out and press. Stitch a double topstitch along the upper edge. Stitch a double topstitch along the edge of the fly. Topstitch the longitudinal allowance of the inner side of the fly extension into the stitching seam. Place the right side of the closure over the left, aligning the finished closure line and topstitch the central onto the fly extension with a double stitch.
- Overlock the hem allowance, press to the wrong side and topstitch with a double topstitch.
- On the central parts of the trousers, make buttonholes, and sew buttons onto the fly extensions.
