CUTTER'S MUST
From main fabric:
- Back half – 2 pieces
- Front half – 2 pieces
- Back yoke – 2 pieces
- Back facing – 2 pieces
- Front facing right – 2 pieces
- Front facing left – 2 pieces
- Underlap – 1 piece
- Back pocket – 2 pieces
- Front pocket – 2 pieces
- Belt loop – 1 piece
From fusible interfacing:
- Back facing – 1 piece
- Front facing right – 1 piece
- Front facing left – 1 piece
- Underlap – 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
- Stitch the side edges of the back and front facings. Press open the side seams of the facings.
- Attach the back yoke to the back half, press seam allowances upwards and overcast.
- Press the upper seam allowance of the back pocket to the wrong side, turn under and topstitch. Overcast the pocket edges, press seam allowances to the wrong side. Place the pocket onto the back half according to markings and topstitch.
- Stitch the center seam of the back half, press seam allowances and overcast.
- Fold the bias binding with the front pocket opening edge right sides together and stitch. Turn the binding to the wrong side, clip seam allowances and topstitch along the fold onto the main piece. Press the seam. Overcast the outer side of the pocket, press to the wrong side. Place the pocket onto the front half and topstitch according to markings.
- From the left front half, cut off the integrated fly facing, leaving a 1 cm seam allowance along the center seam. Overcast the front center edge and the fly facing edge.
- Stitch the center seam of the front halves, starting the stitch at the edge of the integrated fly facing. Press the integrated fly facing to the wrong side. Align the zipper with the center edge of the left half and stitch. Stitch the free tape of the zipper to the integrated fly facing of the right half. Topstitch along the marked line on the right pant half. Fold the underlap in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, and stitch the short bottom and long edges. Overcast the raw edges of the underlap. Stitch the underlap to the zipper attachment seam of the left half. Place a bar tack at the end of the zipper on the right side of the pants. On the wrong side, connect the lower ends of the integrated fly facing and the underlap.
- Stitch, press, and overcast the side seams. Stitch, press, and overcast the inseams.
- Fold the facing pieces right sides together and stitch the upper edge. Turn the facings right side out and press. Topstitch the facing seam onto the inner facing 0.2 cm from the seam. Overcast the lower edge of the inner facings.
- Fold the belt loop lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch 0.5-0.7 cm from the edges. Then turn out, straighten the seam, placing it on the fold, and press. Cut the belt loops to size, mark their placement. Stitch the belt loops to the lower edge of the outer facing.
- Stitch the facings to the upper edge of the pants, aligning the side seams. Stitch the corners of the facings. Trim seam allowances at the corners, turn out and press. Topstitch the overcast edge of the inner facing into the attachment seam. Topstitch the belt loops to the upper edge of the facings.
- Overcast the hem allowance, press to the wrong side and topstitch. On the right facing, make buttonholes, and on the left, sew on buttons.
