Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: thin suiting fabrics made from natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; 1 zipper; trouser hook and eye; lining fabric.
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS ARE WITHOUT SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance - 2.5 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED.
- From main fabric:
- Back half – 2 pieces
- Front half – 2 pieces
- Side panel – 2 pieces
- Fly shield – 1 piece
- Waistband – 1 piece
- From lining fabric:
- Pocket bag – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Fly shield – 1 piece
- Waistband – 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces. Fuse a 1 cm wide fusible stay tape to the pocket opening.
- Mark and stitch darts on the back trouser half. Press darts towards the center. Overlock the back center seam allowance. Stitch the back center seam and press open.
- Fold the front trouser half with the wrong side in, aligning the side and inseam, and press the crease – the "crease line".
- Place the pocket bag and the front trouser half right sides together and stitch around the pocket opening. Turn the pocket bag to the wrong side and press. Topstitch along the pocket opening at a distance of 0.1 cm and press. Lay the front trouser half onto the side panel, aligning the pocket opening lines. Stitch and overlock the pocket lining. Secure the side panel to the front trouser half at the top and side edges.
- From the left front half, cut off the integrated facing, leaving a 1 cm seam allowance along the center seam. Overlock the front center seam allowance and the fly opening edge.
- Stitch the center seam of the front halves, starting the stitch at the edge of the integrated facing. Press the integrated zipper facing to the wrong side. Align the zipper with the center edge of the left half and stitch. Stitch the free zipper tape to the integrated facing of the right half. Topstitch along the marked line on the right trouser half at 0.1 cm. Fold the fly shield in half lengthwise with the wrong side in and overlock the long and short bottom edges. Stitch the fly shield to the zipper attachment seam on the left half. Place a bar tack at the end of the zipper on the right side of the trousers. On the wrong side, connect the bottom ends of the integrated facing and the fly shield.
- Stitch the side seams, press allowances towards the back and overlock. Stitch the inseams, press allowances towards the back and overlock.
- Overlock the bottom edge of the waistband. Fold the waistband in half lengthwise with the wrong side in and press. Stitch the waistband to the top edge of the trousers, stitch the waistband corners. Trim allowances at the corners, turn the waistband right side out. Topstitch the overlocked edge into the waistband attachment seam.
- Overlock the hem allowance, press to the wrong side and hem with blind stitches.
- Sew the hook and eye to the waistband.
- Align the side and inseam on the trouser leg and press the crease – the "crease line" on the back trouser half.
