Pleated Wide Leg Cuffed Trousers
Introducing a contemporary women's sewing pattern for high-waisted trousers, defined by elegant front pleats, a voluminous wide-leg silhouette, and stylish cuffed hems.
When To Wear
These versatile trousers are perfect for creating a sophisticated statement, suitable for a range of occasions:
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Professional & Business Casual: Pair with a blouse or tailored blazer for a polished office look.
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Elevated Everyday Wear: Combine with knitwear or casual tops for comfortable yet chic daily style.
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Semi-Formal & Evening Events: Style with a dressy top for a sophisticated ensemble.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: a relaxed, wide-leg cut that drapes elegantly from the hips.
Waist: High-waisted design with a waistband; a pointed buttoned tab is set into the waistband above the left front pocket, and a button sits on the waistband above the right front pleat.
Front: Features deep front pleats that add volume and drape, alongside vertical double-welt pockets.
Closure: a front zipper fly with a hook and bar closure at the waistband.
Pockets: Vertical double-welt front pockets and one welt pocket with a buttoned flap on the back.
Back: Features back darts for shaping and a center back seam.
Hem: Finished with wide cuffs for a tailored and contemporary finish.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. This pattern involves skills such as constructing pleats, a zipper fly, a waistband, welt pockets with and without flaps, and clean cuff finishing.
Fabric Recommendations
For the best drape and structure, consider lightweight suiting fabrics:
- Lightweight suiting fabrics made from natural or blended fibers
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing
- 1 zipper
- 1 hook and bar closure
- Lining fabric (for pockets)
- 3 buttons
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, seam allowances are included. If the contour is single, seam allowances are not included. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need. When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- From main fabric:
- Back Half – 2 pieces
- Front Half – 2 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Button Catch – 1 piece
- Back Pocket Flap – 2 pieces
- Front Pocket Flap – 2 pieces
- Front Pocket Bag – 2 pieces
- Back Pocket Facing – 1 piece
- Front Pocket Facing – 4 pieces
- Waistband – 1 piece
- From lining fabric:
- Front Pocket Bag – 2 pieces
- Back Pocket Lining – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Button Catch – 1 piece
- Back Pocket Flap – 1 piece
- Front Pocket Flap – 1 piece
- Back Pocket Facing – 1 piece
- Front Pocket Facing – 4 pieces
- Waistband – 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
- Mark and stitch the darts on the Back Halves, press the dart intakes towards the center.
- Place the Back Pocket Flap pieces right sides together and stitch the side and lower edges; repeat with the Front Pocket Flap pieces. Trim the corner allowances, turn the flaps right side out, shape and press. Make the buttonholes.
- Mark the back pocket position on the Back Half. Fold the Back Pocket Facing in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, and press. Mark a guide line on the Back Pocket Facing parallel to the fold for attaching it. Mark a guide line on the Back Pocket Flap parallel to its upper edge for attaching it, measuring the flap width along its entire length. Mark guide lines parallel to the pocket opening for attaching the flap and the facing. Stitch one Back Pocket Lining to the flap. Stitch the Back Pocket Facing and the Back Pocket Flap to the Back Half; the stitching lines must end at the parallel pocket markings. Check the stitching from the wrong side (the lines must be parallel). Cut the pocket opening. At 1–1.5 cm from the pocket ends, make diagonal cuts into the corners. Turn the facing and the flap to the wrong side through the opening, straighten the edges, and adjust the ends so that the pressed fold of the facing meets the flap edge to edge. Secure the pocket ends from the wrong side with a double backstitch across the base of the triangles. Stitch the free end of the second Back Pocket Lining to the facing attachment seam allowance, press the pocket lining down, align, then stitch and overlock the side edges.
- Mark the pocket positions on the Front Halves. Fold the Front Pocket Facings (welts) in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, and press. Mark a guide line on each welt parallel to the fold for attaching it. Place two welts on the Front Half, place the lining Front Pocket Bag on top, aligning the marking lines, and stitch. Cut the Front Half between the stitching lines. At 1–1.5 cm from the pocket ends, make diagonal cuts into the corners. Turn the welts and the lining to the wrong side through the opening, straighten the edges, and adjust the ends so that the pressed folds of the welts meet each other. Secure the pocket corners from the wrong side with a double backstitch across the base of the triangles. Stitch the free edges of the welts to the lining. Place the main-fabric Front Pocket Bag on the lining Front Pocket Bag, aligning the edges. Stitch the main-fabric pocket bag into the attachment seam of the lower welt, folding back the Front Half. Stitch and overlock the outer edges of the pocket bags.
- Fold and stitch the pleats on the Front Halves along the marked lines, with the pleat intakes directed towards the center. Baste the pleats along the upper edge.
- Overlock the center back edges of the Back Halves. Stitch the center back seam and press it open.
- On the left Front Half, cut off the cut-on fly facing, leaving a 1 cm seam allowance along the center front edge. Overlock the center front edges and the fly facing edge.
- Stitch the center front seam of the Front Halves, starting at the end of the cut-on fly facing. Press the cut-on fly facing of the right Front Half to the wrong side. Align the zipper with the center front edge of the left Front Half and stitch. Stitch the free zipper tape to the cut-on fly facing of the right Front Half. Topstitch along the marked line on the right Front Half. Fold the Button Catch (fly shield) in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, and overlock the long and short lower edges. Stitch the Button Catch to the zipper attachment seam of the left Front Half. Make a bar tack at the end of the fly on the right side of the trousers. On the wrong side, join the lower ends of the fly facing and the Button Catch.
- Stitch the side seams, press the allowances towards the back and overlock. Stitch the inseams, press the allowances towards the back and overlock.
- Overlock the lower edge of the Waistband. Fold the Waistband in half lengthwise and press the fold. Stitch the Waistband to the upper edge of the trousers, inserting the Front Pocket Flap (tab) on the left side above the pocket; fold the waistband ends right sides together and stitch across them. Trim the corner allowances and turn the Waistband right side out. Stitch the overlocked edge into the waistband attachment seam (stitch in the ditch).
- Stitch the Cuff into a loop, press the allowances open. Fold the Cuff in half lengthwise, right side out, and press. Stitch the Cuff to the lower edge of the trouser leg from the wrong side, press the allowances and overlock. Turn the Cuff to the right side and secure it along the fold to the trouser leg with blind stitches.
- Sew the hook and bar to the Waistband.
- Sew on the buttons to match the buttonholes on the flaps, and one button on the Waistband above the right front pleat.
