Asymmetrical Hem Fitted Blazer
A fitted women's hip-length jacket with a notched collar, an off-centre three-button front and a hem that drops to a point on the left side. Princess seams front and back, two flap pockets, full lining.
When To Wear
- Over a blouse or fine knit with straight trousers or a pencil skirt for office wear.
- Spring and autumn, as a lined jacket over a dress.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Close fitting, shaped by princess seams from the armholes on the front and back.
Length: Hip length on the right; on the left the front and side back are cut longer and the hem slopes down to a point.
Collar: Notched collar with an upper and under collar; a 1 cm stay tape is fused along the lapel roll line.
Front: Asymmetric left and right fronts with separate facings; the overlap ends off-centre with three buttons at the waist.
Sleeves: Long set-in sleeves with one seam and an eased cap; shoulder pads.
Pockets: Two jetted pockets with flaps, set with a folded welt (frame) and two-part lining pocket bags.
Back: Centre back seam and princess seams; left and right side backs are cut as separate pieces to carry the asymmetric hem.
Lining: Full lining cut from the main pieces minus the facings, bagged through an opening in the left sleeve.
Level Of Difficulty
Advanced. Asymmetric fronts and back, jetted flap pockets, a notched collar set between jacket and facing, a bagged full lining.
Fabric Recommendations
Suiting fabrics of natural or blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (centre fronts, facings, back neck facing, upper collar, flaps, pocket welts, lapel stay tape)
- 3 buttons
- Shoulder pads
Cutter's Must
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- From main fabric:
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Side left back – 1 piece
- Side right back – 1 piece
- Center left front – 1 piece
- Center right front – 1 piece
- Side left front – 1 piece
- Side right front – 1 piece
- Lower collar - 1 piece
- Upper collar – 1 piece
- Right facing – 1 piece
- Left facing – 1 piece
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Pocket frame – 2 pieces
- Flap – 4 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Side left back – 1 piece
- Side right back – 1 piece
- Center left front – 1 piece
- Center right front – 1 piece
- Side left front – 1 piece
- Side right front – 1 piece
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Small pocket bag – 2 pieces
- Large pocket bag – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Center left front – 1 piece
- Center right front – 1 piece
- Left facing – 1 piece
- Right facing – 1 piece
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Upper collar - 1 piece
- Flap – 2 pieces
- Pocket frame – 2 pieces
Note: lining pieces for the front and back are cut according to the main pattern pieces, subtracting the width of the facing and the back neckline facing. Attention: Markings on the patterns are made on the right side.
Sewing Instructions
- Reinforce pieces with fusible interfacing. On the front pieces, along the lapel roll line, apply a 1 cm wide stay tape (from fusible interfacing).
- Stitch the center back seam, overlock and press open the allowances. Stitch the back princess seams. Press allowances towards the center.
- Stitch the front princess seams. Press allowances towards the center.
- Fold the flap pieces in pairs, right sides together, and stitch along the side and bottom edges. Trim allowances, clip corners, turn right side out, and press. Mark the pocket placement with parallel lines. Fold the pocket frame in half, wrong side in, and press. Mark auxiliary lines on the pocket frame and flap for stitching parallel to the fold. Stitch the large pocket bag to the flap. Stitch the frame and flap to the front piece. Cut the front piece along the line marked on the pattern. Make diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket. Turn the frame and flap through the opening to the wrong side, straighten the edges. Secure the pocket corners from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Stitch the small pocket bag into the seam of the frame attachment. Stitch the pocket bag edges, overlock allowances.
- Stitch shoulder and side seams. Press allowances open.
- Fold the upper collar with the lower collar and stitch along the ends and outer edge. Start and end the stitching strictly at the marked collar attachment seam line. Trim seams at corners, clip at the mark. Turn the collar right side out, straighten, and press.
- Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and the front facings.
- Place the facing on the right side of the front piece, right side down, pin, and stitch along the edge. Stitch upwards to the notch indicating the end of the collar attachment.
- Stitch the lower collar into the jacket neckline, and the upper collar into the neckline of the back facing and front facings. Press open the collar attachment seam allowances and secure close to the seams.
- Stitch the sleeve seam, press allowance towards the back. Set in sleeves into armholes according to notches, easing the sleeve cap at the top. Sew on shoulder pads.
- Press up the sleeve hem and jacket hem to the wrong side.
- Stitch the lining seams, leaving an opening in the left sleeve. Stitch the lining to the facings and neckline facing. Stitch the lining to the bottom of the jacket and sleeve.
- Turn the jacket right side out through the technical opening. Close the opening.
- Work buttonholes and sew on buttons.
