Collared Patch Pocket Zipper Jacket
A hip-length women's lined jacket with a shirt-style collar, a separating zipper front, two chest patch pockets with flaps, a bottom band and cuffs.
When To Wear
- Over blouses and knitwear in spring and autumn.
- With jeans, trousers or straight skirts for everyday and casual office wear.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Straight, finished at the hip with a bottom band.
Length: Hip length.
Collar: Two-piece turn-down collar with pointed ends, interfaced, set between the jacket and the facings and topstitched along its edge.
Closure: Separating zipper at the centre front, from the collar to the bottom band. Front edges topstitched.
Sleeves: Long set-in sleeves with shoulder pads and folded ring cuffs.
Pockets: Two patch pockets on the chest, each with a two-layer flap, topstitched around the contour, sewn above the pocket and folded down.
Back: One piece cut on the fold, with no centre back seam.
Waist: Bottom band cut on the fold and interfaced, with a bottom facing on the inside.
Lining: Full lining for the body and sleeves, cut from the main pieces less the front facing and back neck facing; turned through an opening in the left sleeve lining.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Bagging a jacket lining, a collar set between the jacket and facings, a separating zipper with a band, and flapped patch pockets.
Fabric Recommendations
Suiting or lightweight coating of natural and blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (front facings, collar, back neck facing, cuffs, flaps, bottom facing)
- Separating zipper
- Shoulder pads
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, the patterns include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: Top pocket allowance – 2 cm. All other seams 1 cm. Attention! First of all, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) to determine how much material you will need (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).
- From main fabric:
- Front – 2 pieces
- Back - 1 piece with fold
- Sleeve - 2 pieces
- Pocket – 2 pieces
- Flap – 4 pieces
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Bottom band (bottom facing) – 1 piece with fold
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Front – 2 pieces
- Back – 1 piece with fold
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Collar – 1 piece
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Flap – 2 pieces
- Bottom band (bottom facing) – 1 piece
Attention: front and back pieces from lining fabric are cut according to the main fabric patterns, subtracting the width of the front facing and back neckline facing.
Sewing Instructions
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- Interface the pieces with fusible interfacing.
- Overlock the top edge of the pocket. Fold the allowance inwards and topstitch. Overlock and fold the bottom and side allowances of the pocket to the wrong side and press. Mark the pocket placement on the front and topstitch the pocket. Place the flap pieces right sides together and stitch along the side and bottom edges. Trim the allowances, turn right side out and press. Topstitch along the contour of the flap. Place the flap on the front according to the markings, with the allowance pointing down, and topstitch. Fold the flap down and stitch a securing line.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams. Press the seams open.
- Stitch the sleeve seam. Press the seam towards the back. Set the sleeve into the armhole. Press the allowance. Attach shoulder pads. Stitch the cuff into a loop, press the allowances open. Fold the cuff in half lengthwise, right side out, and press. Attach the outer side of the cuff to the sleeve.
- Set the undercollar into the neckline. Clip and press the allowances open.
- Attach the bottom band to the jacket. Press the allowances open.
- Attach the separating zipper to the jacket.
- Stitch the lining seams, leaving an opening in the left sleeve.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the facing and front facing. Press the allowances open. Set the upper collar into the neckline, clip and press the allowances open. Attach the facing and front facing to the lining, press the allowances towards the lining. Attach the lining to the inner edge of the bottom facing, press the allowances towards the facing.
- Place the main fabric and lining right sides together. Stitch the front edges and collar. Trim the allowances at the collar corners. Turn the jacket right side out through the technical opening. Secure the collars together close to the seams. Secure the main fabric and lining with a topstitch into the seam of the bottom band attachment.
- Attach the lining to the cuff. Secure the allowances of the main fabric and lining.
- Stitch the technical opening closed.
- Topstitch along the front edge and collar contour.
