Knit Fabric Types: Jersey, Rib, Interlock and Ponte

A knit is a single yarn looped through itself in rows and columns, called courses and wales, so the structure can extend and contract. This is why knits stretch, drape softly around the body and resist wrinkling. It is also why they curl at the edges, run when cut and need stitches that stretch with the fabric rather than snapping.

The two headline properties of any knit are stretch, how far it extends, and recovery, how well it returns to shape. A knit with good stretch but poor recovery bags at the knees and elbows, so recovery matters as much as stretch percentage when you evaluate a fabric.

Single jersey is the most common knit, with a smooth right side of vertical wales and a looped, less tidy wrong side. It is what most T-shirts are made from. Lightweight and fluid, it typically offers good crosswise stretch with more modest lengthwise stretch, and it drapes closely to the body.

Its main quirk is edge curl: cut jersey rolls toward the right side at the edges, which complicates hemming and neckbands. It can also run if a loop is broken. A ballpoint or stretch needle and a narrow zigzag or overlock stitch keep seams elastic and flat.

Rib knit is built with alternating columns of face and reverse loops, creating pronounced vertical ridges and a great deal of crosswise stretch with strong recovery. That elasticity and grip make rib the standard choice for cuffs, waistbands, collars and close-fitting tops that need to hug and spring back.

Ribs are described by their repeat, such as 1x1 or 2x2, which sets how deep the ridges are. Because rib pulls in strongly, bands are usually cut shorter than the edge they finish so they gather the opening snugly without the maker forcing the stretch.

Interlock is effectively two jerseys knitted together so both sides look like the smooth right side. It is thicker, more stable and does not curl, which makes it far easier to cut and sew than single jersey while still offering comfortable stretch. It suits dresses, children's wear and structured tops.

Ponte, or ponte di Roma, is a firm, double-knit with limited stretch and excellent recovery, often blended with a little elastane. Its body and stability let it behave almost like a stable woven, so it is a favorite for structured dresses, ponte trousers and simple unlined jackets that hold their shape.

• Single jersey: T-shirts, soft draped tops, gathered knit dresses.
• Rib: cuffs, waistbands, neckbands, close-fitting bodysuits and tops.
• Interlock: stable T-shirts, children's wear, easy dresses that need less curl.
• Ponte: structured dresses, trousers, pencil skirts and soft jackets.
• Always check the pattern's required stretch percentage and confirm your knit meets it.

Knits are sensitive to how they are laid out. Let the fabric relax fully before cutting, never let it hang off the table where its own weight distorts it, and cut with the greatest stretch running around the body. A rotary cutter and pattern weights disturb the loops less than heavy pinning.

For close-fitting knitwear, cutting accuracy and the right amount of negative ease are what make the garment fit. Minerva Patterns supplies made-to-measure patterns in DXF AAMA, PLT and PDF, so knit pieces can be plotted with the stretch direction and negative ease built in around individual measurements.