Coating and Outerwear Fabrics: Melton, Gabardine and Softshell

Melton is a heavily fulled, densely woven wool with a smooth, felted surface where the weave is almost invisible. That felting makes it warm, wind-resistant and, usefully, non-fraying, so its edges can be left raw or bound rather than turned. It is the classic overcoat and peacoat fabric, typically heavy at 400 gsm and above.

Its density gives melton excellent structure, holding a tailored collar and lapel beautifully, but it is bulky. Seams need grading and careful pressing to reduce thickness, and a coat in melton is a substantial sewing project that benefits from a sturdy machine and a jeans or heavy needle.

Gabardine is a tightly woven twill, traditionally wool but also cotton and blends, with a distinct diagonal rib on the face and a smooth back. The tight weave makes it hard-wearing, wind-resistant and naturally somewhat water-repellent, which is why it built the reputation of the classic trench coat and remains a staple for tailored raincoats and suits.

Gabardine has body without the bulk of melton, so it tailors crisply and holds a sharp pressed edge. Its tight weave can be prone to seam slippage and to showing needle holes, so a sharp needle, accurate stitching and avoiding unpicking are worthwhile disciplines.

Softshell is a modern engineered fabric, usually a bonded laminate of a stretch outer face, sometimes a windproof or breathable membrane, and a soft fleece backing. It provides warmth, wind resistance and water repellency with stretch and breathability, which is why it dominates active and casual outerwear.

Being a bonded synthetic, softshell does not fray and needs no lining, but its layers can be tricky to sew: it can be bulky at seams, resistant to easing, and unforgiving of unpicked holes. A stretch or microtex needle, a walking foot and flat, topstitched or bound seams handle it well, and heat must be kept low to protect the membrane.

• Warmth: melton leads, softshell adds insulation with less bulk, gabardine is the least warm alone.
• Water resistance: softshell and gabardine repel light rain; melton resists but soaks in heavy wet.
• Structure: melton and gabardine tailor crisply; softshell is soft and casual.
• Wind resistance: all three perform well, softshell and dense melton especially.
• Fraying: melton and softshell do not fray; gabardine does and needs finished seams.

1. 1.Choose interfacing and any lining appropriate to the shell weight so the coat holds shape without stiffness.
2. 2.Grade and clip bulky seam allowances, especially at collars, lapels and hems, to reduce thickness.
3. 3.Use a heavy or specialist needle and a longer stitch suited to the fabric weight.
4. 4.Test pressing on a scrap, keeping heat low for laminates and using a cloth on wool to avoid shine.
5. 5.Reinforce stress points such as pockets, vents and buttonholes, which take hard wear in outerwear.

Outerwear is worn over other clothes, so it needs enough ease to layer without straining, and getting that balance right is central to a coat that works. Too little ease and the coat pulls over a sweater; too much and it looks shapeless. The pattern must account for both the layers beneath and the thickness of the shell itself.

Because coats involve significant fabric investment and complex fitting, accuracy is worth the effort. Minerva Patterns supplies made-to-measure outerwear patterns in DXF AAMA, PLT and PDF, generated with layering ease around individual measurements, so bulky shell fabrics can be cut right the first time.