Fabric & Materials
SINTENIT: Duplicate the collar (1 QTY) and belt placket pieces cut from the main fabric with sintenit, stitching them along the contour.
CUTTER'S MUST
- MAIN FABRIC:
- FRONT PANEL - 2 QTY
- BACK PANEL - 1 QTY
- BACK YOKE - 1 QTY
- FRONT YOKE – 2 QTY
- SIDE PANEL – 4 QTY
- CENTRAL SLEEVE PART - 2 QTY
- SIDE SLEEVE PART - 4 QTY
- COLLAR - 2 QTY
- CUFF - 2 QTY
- FACING - 2 QTY
- BELT - 1 QTY
- BELT PLACKET - 2 QTY
- LARGE POCKET BAG - 2 QTY
- SMALL POCKET BAG - 2 QTY
- WELT - 2 QTY
Cut bias strips 3.5cm wide from the main fabric for making piping. The length of the strips depends on the length of the piping. ATTENTION! After making the piping, a 1 cm SEAM ALLOWANCE must remain. Otherwise, adjust the width of the cut strips yourself.
- LINING:
- FRONT PANEL - 2 QTY
- BACK PANEL - 1 QTY
- SLEEVE - 2 QTY
Sewing Instructions
- ZIPPER POCKETS. Duplicate the WELT with FUSIBLE INTERFACING, fold in half lengthwise, and press. Duplicate the pocket placement area with FUSIBLE INTERFACING. Mark a line on the WELT defining the finished WELT width. Place the WELT on the right side of the FRONT PANEL, aligning the pocket marking line with the line on the WELT. The outer side of the WELT should align with the right side of the FRONT PANEL. Stitch the WELT. Cut the pocket opening in the middle between the marking lines, making diagonal cuts towards the pocket marking corners. Turn the WELT to the wrong side. Press open the SEAM ALLOWANCES. Place the ZIPPER under the pocket opening. From the right side of the FRONT PANEL, stitch the ZIPPER 0.1cm from the pocket opening. Stitch the small pocket bag to the lower ZIPPER tape and turn down. Stitch the large pocket bag to the upper ZIPPER tape. Stitch the pocket bag edges. The pocket bag edges should be included in the ZIPPER insertion seam and the belt attachment seam.
- MAKING PIPING. Stitch the strips together, press the seams open. Fold the resulting strip in half, insert a cord inside, and stitch along the contour of the cord.
- ASSEMBLY OF THE UPPER GARMENT. Stitch the SIDE PANELS to the BACK PANEL and FRONT PANELS. Topstitch the attachment seams. Stitch the SIDE SLEEVE PARTS to the side parts of the BACK PANEL and FRONT PANEL along the armhole. Stitch the shoulder edges. Topstitch the shoulder seam along the BACK PANEL. Stitch the central SLEEVE PARTS and YOKE. Stitch the YOKE to the BACK PANEL and FRONT PANEL, connecting the central and SIDE SLEEVE PARTS and inserting the piping. Topstitch the YOKE attachment seam. Topstitch the SLEEVE attachment seams along the armhole. Stitch the side seams and SLEEVE seams. Insert the upper COLLAR into the neckline. Topstitch the piping along the outer edge of the upper COLLAR.
- LINING. Topstitch the FACING to the FRONT PANEL LINING, after pressing the inner edge of the FACING. Stitch the jacket LINING, leaving a technological opening unstitched in the seam of one of the SLEEVES for turning out. Insert the lower COLLAR into the LINING neckline.
- CUFFS. Stitch the CUFFS and elastic tape into a ring separately. Insert the elastic tape into the CUFF, stretch to the CUFF length, and make 2 decorative stitches. For industrial processing, it is recommended to first secure the elastic tape in the CUFF, and then stitch into a ring with a 'flat-felled' seam. Stitch the CUFFS to the SLEEVES, catching the edge of the elastic in the seam.
- BELT. Secure the elastic tape in the BELT, making 2 decorative stitches. Stitch the BELT PLACKETS to the BELT. Stitch the BELT to the jacket. Secure the BELT PLACKETS from the wrong side to the FRONT PANEL LINING.
- ZIPPER CLOSURE. Fold one half of the ZIPPER with the garment edge right sides together (teeth pointing away from the edge). Finish the edges of the garment and COLLAR with the LINING, simultaneously inserting the ZIPPER. Turn the garment to the right side.
- Stitch the LINING to the CUFFS and BELT of the jacket. Close the technological opening.
- Topstitch the edges and COLLAR of the jacket.
- Press the finished jacket.
