CUTTER'S MUST
- MAIN FABRIC:
- FRONT PANEL - 2 QTY
- BACK PANEL - 1 QTY
- BACK YOKE - 1 QTY
- FRONT YOKE – 2 QTY
- BACK INSERT - 1 QTY
- BACK INSERT_2 - 1 QTY
- FRONT INSERT - 2 QTY
- FRONT INSERT_2 - 2 QTY
- SLEEVE - 4 QTY
- SLEEVE INSERT - 4 QTY
- COLLAR - 2 QTY
- CUFF - 2 QTY
- FRONT FACING - 2 QTY
- LARGE POCKET BAG - 2 QTY
- SMALL POCKET BAG - 2 QTY
- WELT - 2 QTY
Cut bias strips 3.5cm wide from the main fabric for making piping. The length of the strips depends on the length of the piping. ATTENTION! After making the piping, a 1 cm SEAM ALLOWANCE must remain. Otherwise, adjust the width of the cut strips yourself.
- LINING:
- FRONT PANEL - 2 QTY
- BACK PANEL - 1 QTY
- SLEEVE - 2 QTY
SYNTHETIC INSULATION: Duplicate the upper COLLAR piece cut from the main fabric with synthetic insulation, stitching along the contour.
Sewing Instructions
- MAKING PIPING. Stitch the strips together, press the seams open. Fold the resulting strip in half, insert a cord inside, and stitch along the contour of the cord.
- WELT POCKETS. Duplicate the WELT with FUSIBLE INTERFACING, fold in half lengthwise, and press. Duplicate the pocket placement area with FUSIBLE INTERFACING. Mark a line on the WELT that defines the finished WELT width. Stitch the piping to the outer side of the WELT, and stitch the small pocket bag to the inner side. Place the WELT with the pocket bag on the right side of the FRONT PANEL, aligning the pocket marking line with the line on the WELT. The outer side of the WELT should align with the right side of the FRONT PANEL. Stitch the WELT. Stitch the large pocket bag to the upper pocket marking line. Cut the pocket opening in the middle between the marking lines, making diagonal cuts towards the pocket marking corners. Turn the pocket pieces to the wrong side. Straighten and press the SEAM ALLOWANCES. Stitch the pocket bag edges, securing the pocket corners. The edges of the pocket bags should be included in the ZIPPER insertion seam and reach the bottom hemline.
- ASSEMBLING THE MAIN GARMENT. Stitch the FRONT PANEL and BACK PANEL inserts to the FRONT PANEL and BACK PANEL yokes, inserting piping. Topstitch. Stitch the yokes to the SLEEVE pieces. Topstitch the SLEEVE seam. Stitch inserts_2 to the FRONT PANELS and BACK PANEL. Topstitch along the BACK PANEL and FRONT PANELS. Stitch the SLEEVE inserts to the BACK PANEL and FRONT PANELS. Topstitch. Stitch the yokes to the BACK PANEL and FRONT PANELS. Topstitch. Stitch the shoulder seam, transitioning into the central SLEEVE seam. Topstitch the shoulder seam along the BACK PANEL. Stitch the side seams and SLEEVE seams. Insert the upper COLLAR into the neckline.
- LINING. Stitch the FRONT FACING to the FRONT PANEL LINING, after pressing the inner edge of the FRONT FACING. Stitch the jacket LINING. Insert the lower COLLAR into the LINING neckline.
- CUFFS. Stitch the CUFFS and elastic tape into a loop separately. Insert the elastic tape into the CUFF, stretch to the CUFF length, and make 2 decorative stitches. For industrial processing, it is recommended to first secure the elastic tape in the CUFF, and then stitch into a loop with a 'flat-felled' seam. Stitch the CUFFS to the SLEEVES, catching the edge of the elastic in the seam.
- ZIPPER FASTENING. Place one half of the ZIPPER with the garment edge right sides together (teeth pointing away from the edge). FACING the edges of the garment and COLLAR with the LINING, simultaneously inserting the ZIPPER. Turn the garment to the right side.
- Stitch the LINING to the CUFFS.
- Overcast buttonholes for the cord on the bottom hem. Press the bottom hem, turning up 1cm first, then 3.5cm. Topstitch the bottom hem.
- Topstitch the garment edges and COLLAR.
- Press the finished jacket.
- Insert the cord into the bottom of the jacket from the wrong side.
