CUTTER'S MUST
- MAIN FABRIC:
- FRONT PANEL - 2 QTY
- BACK PANEL - 1 QTY
- FRONT YOKE – 2 QTY
- BACK YOKE – 1 QTY
- FRONT SIDE PANEL – 2 QTY
- BACK SIDE PANEL – 2 QTY
- SLEEVE CENTER INSERT - 2 QTY
- SLEEVE FRONT INSERT - 2 QTY
- SLEEVE BACK INSERT - 2 QTY
- SLEEVE INSERT - 4 QTY
- SLEEVE SIDE PANEL - 4 QTY
- SLEEVE LOWER PART - 2 QTY
- TAB – 4 QTY
- HOOD - 2 QTY
- HOOD CENTER PART - 1 QTY
- UPPER COLLAR - 1 QTY
- FRONT FACING - 2 QTY
- LARGE POCKET BAG - 2 QTY
- WELT - 2 QTY
- LINING:
- FRONT PANEL - 2 QTY
- BACK PANEL - 1 QTY
- SLEEVE - 2 QTY
- SMALL POCKET BAG - 2 QTY
- HOOD – 2 QTY
- HOOD CENTER PART - 1 QTY
- LOWER COLLAR - 1 QTY
Sewing Instructions
- WELT POCKETS WITH ZIPPER. Fuse the WELT with FUSIBLE INTERFACING, fold in half lengthwise, and press. Fuse the pocket placement area with FUSIBLE INTERFACING. Mark a line on the WELT to define its finished width. Place the WELT on the right side of the FRONT PANEL, aligning the pocket marking lines and the line on the WELT. The outer edge of the WELT should align with the right side of the FRONT SIDE PANEL. Stitch the WELT. Cut the pocket opening in the middle between the marking lines, making diagonal cuts towards the pocket marking corners. Turn the WELT to the wrong side. Press the SEAM ALLOWANCES open. Place the ZIPPER under the pocket opening. From the right side of the FRONT PANEL, stitch the ZIPPER 0.1cm from the pocket opening. Stitch the small POCKET BAG to the lower ZIPPER tape and turn down. Stitch the large POCKET BAG to the upper ZIPPER tape. Stitch the edges of the POCKET BAGS. The edges of the POCKET BAGS should be caught in the ZIPPER insertion seam and extend to the bottom line.
- ASSEMBLING THE MAIN GARMENT. Stitch the SIDE PANELS to the BACK PANEL and FRONT PANELS. Topstitch. Stitch the SLEEVE SIDE PANELS to the BACK PANEL and FRONT PANELS. Stitch the SLEEVE INSERTS to the BACK YOKE and FRONT YOKE. Stitch the center, front, and back SLEEVE INSERTS. Topstitch. Stitch the BACK YOKE and FRONT YOKE to the SLEEVE INSERTS. Topstitch. Topstitch Velcro tape to the inner side of the TAB and to the SLEEVE LOWER PART. Stitch around the TAB, turn right side out, and topstitch along the contour. Stitch the SLEEVE LOWER PART to the SLEEVE CENTER PART. Stitch the assembled upper and lower parts of the jacket along the YOKE seam, inserting the TAB simultaneously. Topstitch. Stitch the side seams and SLEEVE seams. Insert the UPPER COLLAR into the neckline, simultaneously inserting the ZIPPER for the HOOD.
- HOOD. Stitch the HOOD main fabric and LINING. Topstitch the HOOD along the center part. Stitch the LINING to the HOOD along the lower edge, inserting the ZIPPER. Insert the LINING into the HOOD, topstitch the lower edge. Press the hem along the front edge of the HOOD and topstitch to the LINING, forming a casing. Insert elastic cord with toggles into the HOOD.
- LINING. Topstitch the FRONT FACING to the FRONT PANEL LINING, after pressing the inner edge of the FRONT FACING. Stitch the jacket LINING. Fuse the LOWER COLLAR with non-FUSIBLE INTERFACING. Insert the LOWER COLLAR into the LINING neckline.
- ZIPPER CLOSURE. Place one half of the ZIPPER closure face to face with the garment's front edge (teeth pointing away from the edge). Stitch around the front edges and COLLAR with the LINING, simultaneously inserting the ZIPPER closure. Turn the garment right side out.
- Stitch the LINING to the SLEEVES. Topstitch. On the bottom hem, overcast buttonholes for the cord. Press the bottom hem, turning up 1cm first, then 3.5cm. Topstitch the bottom hem.
- Topstitch the front edges and COLLAR of the jacket.
- Press the finished jacket.
- Insert elastic cord with cord locks into the bottom of the jacket.
