CUTTER'S MUST
- MAIN FABRIC:
- FRONT PANEL - 2 QTY
- BACK PANEL - 1 QTY
- SLEEVE INSERT - 2 QTY
- SLEEVE - 4 QTY
- HOOD - 2 QTY
- HOOD CENTER PART - 1 QTY
- HOOD FACING – 1 QTY
- FRONT FACING - 2 QTY
- LARGE POCKET BAG - 2 QTY
- WELT - 2 QTY
- INNER POCKET WELT - 1 QTY
- Cut bias strips 3.5cm wide from the main fabric for making piping. The length of the strips depends on the length of the piping.
- ATTENTION! After making the piping, a 1 cm SEAM ALLOWANCE must remain. Otherwise, adjust the width of the cut strips yourself.
- LINING:
- FRONT PANEL - 2 QTY
- BACK PANEL - 1 QTY
- SLEEVE - 2 QTY
- SMALL POCKET BAG - 2 QTY
- HOOD – 2 QTY
- HOOD CENTER PART - 1 QTY
- LARGE INNER POCKET BAG - 1 QTY
- SMALL INNER POCKET BAG - 1 QTY
Sewing Instructions
- MAKING PIPING. Stitch the strips together, press the seams open. Fold the resulting strip in half, insert the cord inside, and stitch along the contour of the cord.
- WELT POCKETS. Fuse FUSIBLE INTERFACING to the welt, fold it in half lengthwise, and press. Fuse FUSIBLE INTERFACING to the pocket placement area. Mark a line on the welt that defines the finished width of the welt. Stitch the piping to the outer side of the welt, and stitch the small pocket bag to the inner side. Place the welt with the pocket bag on the right side of the FRONT PANEL, aligning the pocket marking line with the line on the welt. The outer side of the welt should align with the right side of the FRONT PANEL. Stitch the welt. Stitch the large pocket bag to the upper pocket marking line. Cut the pocket opening in the middle between the marking lines, making diagonal cuts towards the pocket marking corners. Turn the pocket pieces to the wrong side. Straighten and press the SEAM ALLOWANCES. Stitch the pocket bag edges, securing the pocket corners. The edges of the pocket bags should enter the ZIPPER insertion seam and reach the bottom line.
- ASSEMBLY OF THE MAIN GARMENT. Stitch the SLEEVES to the BACK PANEL and FRONT PANELS. Topstitch along the armhole. Stitch the SLEEVE insert to the assembled pieces, inserting the piping. Topstitch. Stitch the side seams and SLEEVE seams. Stitch the HOOD parts. Topstitch the HOOD along the center part. Insert the HOOD into the neckline. Machine buttonholes on the HOOD according to the markings.
- INNER POCKET. Fuse FUSIBLE INTERFACING to the welt, fold it in half lengthwise, and press. Mark a line on the welt that defines the finished width of the welt. Stitch the small pocket bag to the inner side. Place the welt with the pocket bag on the right side of the LINING FRONT PANEL, aligning the pocket marking line with the line on the welt. The outer side of the welt should align with the right side of the LINING. Stitch the welt. Stitch the large pocket bag to the upper pocket marking line. Cut the pocket opening in the middle between the marking lines, making diagonal cuts towards the pocket marking corners. The other side of the pocket enters the FRONT FACING attachment seam. Turn the pocket pieces to the wrong side. Straighten and press the SEAM ALLOWANCES. Stitch the pocket bag edges, securing one pocket corner.
- LINING. Stitch the FRONT FACING to the LINING FRONT PANEL. Stitch the jacket LINING, inserting the SLEEVE into the open armhole. Stitch the HOOD LINING parts and connect them to the HOOD FACING. Insert the HOOD LINING into the LINING neckline.
- ZIPPER FASTENING. Fold one half of the ZIPPER with the garment edge right sides together (teeth pointing away from the edge). Stitch the edges of the garment and HOOD with the LINING, simultaneously inserting the ZIPPER. Turn the garment to the right side.
- Press the bottom hem and SLEEVE hem, turning up 1cm first, then 3.5cm. Topstitch the bottom of the garment and the bottom of the SLEEVES.
- Topstitch the jacket edges and HOOD.
- Press the finished jacket.
- Insert the cord into the HOOD.
