Curved Yoke Full Zip Jacket

Fabric & Materials

FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: rainwear fabrics (polyester); mesh knit fabric can be used as lining, as well as fleece or Polartec for an insulated jacket version. ALSO NEEDED: Synthenit (thin synthetic batting); fusible interfacing; 1 separating zipper (zipper length depends on the front length of the garment, including the stand collar height); 2 non-separating zippers (zipper length depends on pocket length); cord for piping; elastic tape 4.5cm wide for cuffs; elastic cord for the jacket hem; 2 cord stoppers.

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THEY INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: for the hem of the main fabric pieces – 4.5cm, for the lining hem – 0cm (lining reaches the hem fold), other seams 1cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces, as well as the color scheme).

• MAIN FABRIC:
  • FRONT – 2 pieces
  • BACK – 1 piece
  • BACK YOKE – 1 piece
  • FRONT YOKE – 2 pieces
  • BACK INSERT – 1 piece
  • FRONT INSERT – 2 pieces
  • SIDE FRONT – 2 pieces
  • SIDE BACK – 2 pieces
  • CENTRAL SLEEVE PART - 2 pieces
  • LOWER SLEEVE PART - 4 pieces
  • COLLAR - 2 pieces
  • CUFF - 2 pieces
  • FRONT FACING - 2 pieces
  • LARGE POCKET BAG - 2 pieces
  • SMALL POCKET BAG - 2 pieces
• Cut bias strips 3.5cm wide from the main fabric for making piping. The length of the strips depends on the length of the piping. ATTENTION! After making the piping, a 1cm seam allowance must remain. Otherwise, adjust the width of the cut strips yourself.
• LINING:
  • FRONT – 2 pieces
  • BACK – 1 piece
  • SLEEVE - 2 pieces
• SYNTHENIT: Duplicate the upper collar piece cut from the main fabric with Synthenit, stitching along the contour.

Sewing Instructions

WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

1. ZIPPER POCKETS IN SEAMS. Fuse interfacing to the pocket placement area on the front. Attach the zipper together with the small pocket bag to the front. Attach the other edge of the zipper together with the large pocket bag to the side front. Clip allowances at the corners. Attach the side front to the front, simultaneously stitching the pocket bags. Make bar tacks at the pocket opening and topstitch. The edges of the pocket bags should enter the zipper insertion seam and reach the hemline.
2. MAKING PIPING. Stitch the strips together, press the seams open. Fold the resulting strip in half, insert the cord inside, and stitch along the contour of the cord.
3. ASSEMBLING THE OUTER SHELL. Attach the side pieces to the back. Topstitch the attachment seams. Attach the inserts to the back and fronts, inserting the piping. Topstitch. Attach the lower sleeve parts to the armholes. Stitch the shoulder seams. Topstitch the shoulder seam on the back. Stitch the central sleeve parts and yokes. Stitch the lower sleeve parts along the center seam. Attach the yoke to the back and front, connecting the central and lower sleeve parts and inserting the piping. Topstitch the yoke attachment seam. Topstitch the sleeve attachment seams at the armholes. Stitch the side seams and sleeve seams. Insert the upper collar into the neckline.
4. LINING. Topstitch the front facing to the front lining, previously pressing the inner edge of the facing. Stitch the jacket lining. Insert the lower collar into the lining neckline.
5. CUFFS. Stitch the cuffs and elastic tape into a loop separately. Insert the elastic tape into the cuff, stretch it to the length of the cuff, and make 2 topstitches. For industrial processing, it is recommended to first secure the elastic tape in the cuff, and then stitch it into a loop with a "flat-felled" seam. Attach the cuffs to the sleeves, catching the edge of the elastic in the seam.
6. ZIPPER CLOSURE. Place one half of the separating zipper with the garment edge right sides together (teeth facing away from the edge). Face the edges of the fronts and collar with the lining, simultaneously inserting the zipper. Turn the garment right side out.
7. Attach the lining to the cuffs.
8. Overcast buttonholes for the cord on the hem allowance. Press the hem allowance, first turning up 1cm, then 3.5cm. Topstitch the hem allowance.
9. Topstitch the fronts and collar of the jacket.
10. Press the finished jacket.
11. Insert the cord into the jacket hem from the wrong side.