Hooded Paneled Windbreaker Jacket
A men's (unisex) hip-length windbreaker with a separating front zip, a zip-off lined hood, yokes that continue into pieced sleeve inserts, and zipped welt pockets. Lined with brushed-back knit or fleece; drawcord at the hood and hem.
When To Wear
- In wind and light rain in spring and autumn, for walking, cycling and travel.
- Over a sweatshirt or jumper with jeans or track trousers.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Loose fit, divided by curved side front and side back panels and by front and back yokes; all panel seams topstitched.
Length: Hip length, with an elastic drawcord in the hem.
Collar: Collar set into the neckline together with one half of the hood zip; the under collar is backed with non-fusible interfacing.
Sleeves: Pieced: centre, front and back sleeve inserts join the yokes and run down the arm, with side sleeve panels and a lower sleeve. A tab with hook and loop tape at the wrist adjusts the width.
Closure: Separating zip up the front edges and collar, caught between the shell and the lining.
Pockets: Slanted welt pockets with zips next to the side front seams; the pocket bags reach down to the hem.
Back: One-piece back with a back yoke and side back panels.
Finishing: Hood made of side pieces and a centre panel, lined, with an elastic cord and cord ends in a casing at the front edge; it attaches with a zip at the neckline. Hem turned up 1 cm then 3.5 cm and topstitched, with buttonholes for the cord; front edges and collar topstitched.
Lining: Knit lining in the body, sleeves and hood, with the facings topstitched onto the front lining.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Many panels with topstitched seams, zipped welt pockets, four zips including a separating zip and a zip-off hood, and drawcord casings.
Fabric Recommendations
Rainwear and jacket fabrics in polyester, cotton or blends. For the lining, a knit with a brushed or terry back: fleece, Polartec, jersey.
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing
- Non-fusible interfacing
- 1 separating zip, the length of the front including the collar
- 2 closed-end zips for the pockets
- 1 closed-end zip for the hood
- Elastic cord for the hood and hem
- 2 cord ends
- 2 cord stoppers
- Hook and loop tape
Cutter's Must
- Main fabric:
- Front – 2 pieces
- Back – 1 piece
- Front Yoke – 2 pieces
- Back Yoke – 1 piece
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Center Sleeve Inset – 2 pieces
- Front Sleeve Inset – 2 pieces
- Back Sleeve Inset – 2 pieces
- Sleeve Inset – 4 pieces
- Side Sleeve – 4 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Tab – 4 pieces
- Hood – 2 pieces
- Center Hood – 1 piece
- Upper Collar – 1 piece
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Bigger Pocket Bag – 2 pieces
- Off-Set Welt – 2 pieces
- Lining:
- Front Lining – 2 pieces
- Back Lining – 1 piece
- Sleeve Lining – 2 pieces
- Smaller Pocket Bag – 2 pieces
- Hood Lining – 2 pieces
- Center Hood Lining – 1 piece
- Lower Collar – 1 piece
- Fusible interfacing:
- Off-Set Welt – 2 pieces; pocket placement areas on the fronts
- Non-fusible interfacing:
- Lower Collar – 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
- Zippered welt pockets. Interface the Off-Set Welt with fusible interfacing, fold it in half lengthwise and press. Interface the pocket placement area with fusible interfacing. Mark a line on the welt showing its finished width. Place the welt on the right side of the Front, matching the pocket markings with the line on the welt; the outer side of the welt should face the same way as the right side of the Side Front. Stitch the welt. Cut the pocket opening in the middle between the marking lines, clipping diagonally into the corners. Turn the welt to the wrong side and press the seam allowances open. Place the zipper under the pocket opening and, from the right side of the Front, stitch it 0.1 cm from the opening. Stitch the Smaller Pocket Bag (lining) to the lower zipper tape and turn it down. Stitch the Bigger Pocket Bag to the upper zipper tape. Stitch the pocket bags together around the edges; the edges of the bags should be caught in the zipper seam and reach the hemline.
- Assembling the shell. Stitch the Side Front and Side Back pieces to the Fronts and Back. Topstitch. Stitch the Side Sleeve pieces to the Back and Fronts. Stitch the Sleeve Inset pieces to the Back Yoke and Front Yokes. Stitch together the Center Sleeve Inset, Front Sleeve Inset and Back Sleeve Inset. Topstitch. Stitch the Back Yoke and Front Yokes to the sleeve insets. Topstitch. Stitch hook & loop tape to the inner side of a Tab and to the Lower Sleeve. Stitch the Tab pieces together, turn right side out and topstitch around the edge. Stitch the Lower Sleeve to the Center Sleeve Inset. Join the upper and lower parts of the jacket along the yoke seam, catching the Tab in the seam. Topstitch. Stitch the side seams and sleeve seams. Stitch the Upper Collar to the neckline, inserting one half of the hood zipper at the same time.
- Hood. Assemble the hood from the Hood and Center Hood pieces and the hood lining from the Hood Lining and Center Hood Lining pieces. Topstitch the hood along the center panel. Stitch the lining to the hood along the lower edge, inserting the other half of the hood zipper. Turn the lining into the hood and topstitch the lower edge. Press the hem allowance along the front edge of the hood and topstitch it to the lining, forming a casing. Thread the elastic cord with cord ends through the hood casing.
- Lining. Press under the inner edge of the Center Front Facing and topstitch the facing onto the Front Lining. Assemble the jacket lining (Front Lining, Back Lining, Sleeve Lining). Interface the Lower Collar with non-fusible interfacing. Stitch the Lower Collar to the lining neckline.
- Zipper closure. Place each half of the separating zipper right sides together with the front edge of the jacket (teeth pointing away from the edge). Stitch the lining to the front edges and collar, catching the zipper in the seam. Turn the jacket right side out.
- Stitch the lining to the sleeves. Topstitch. Make buttonholes for the cord in the hem allowance. Press the hem, turning under first 1 cm, then 3.5 cm. Topstitch the hem.
- Topstitch the front edges and collar of the jacket.
- Press the finished jacket.
- Thread the elastic cord with cord stoppers through the hem of the jacket.
