Double Breasted Peak Lapel Jacket

Classic Double-Breasted Jacket with Notched Collar, Chest Welt Pocket & Double-Welt Pockets with Flaps

Introducing a jacket pattern for the structured double-breasted blazer with welt pocket and flap pockets – Classic Menswear with Timeless Authority.

When To Wear

This refined blazer delivers sophistication and strength, making it perfect for:

• Business Settings: a professional staple in tailored suiting.
• Formal Events: a sharp double-breasted silhouette elevates evening wear.
• Smart Casual: Pair with tailored trousers or dark denim for modern elegance.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Structured double-breasted cut with straight hemline and tailored shoulders.

Closure: Six-button front closure, double-breasted style, with notched lapels.

Collar & Lapel: Classic notched lapel with structured collar.

Pockets: One welt chest pocket, two double-welt pockets with flaps.

Sleeves: Long sleeves designed for precise tailored fit.

Back: Center-back seam for structure.

Level Of Difficulty

Advanced. Involves complex tailoring techniques, precise lapel shaping, welt pocket construction, and pad stitching for professional results.

Fabric Recommendations

• Wool suiting or wool blends
• Semi-wool tailored fabrics
• Optional: Checked or striped suiting fabrics for a bold tailored statement

Recommended lining fabric: cupro or satin in a matching tone.

Additional Supplies

• Suit wool fabric
• Matching lining fabric
• Fusible interfacing
• Synthetic padding for sleeve heads
• 11 buttons, 18 mm diameter
• Shoulder pads

Cutter’s Must

From Main Fabric:

1. Back – 2 pieces
2. Front – 2 pieces
3. Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
4. Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
5. Upper Collar – 1 piece
6. Lower Collar – 1 piece
7. Chest Welt (marked on pattern as “Pocket Off-Set Welt) – 1 piece
8. Pocket Flap – 2 pieces
9. Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
10. Pocket Welt Facing – 4 rectangles (15.5 × 3 cm)
11. Pocket Bag – 2 rectangles (18 × 21 cm)
12. Pocket Bag (for Chest Welt Pocket) – 1 piece

From Lining Fabric:

For drafting lining pieces, use main pattern pieces with the following modifications:

1. Back Lining – use Back pattern, add 2 cm ease pleat at center back; cut 2.
2. Front Lining – use Front pattern excluding center front facing area; cut 2.
3. Upper Sleeve – use Upper Sleeve pattern, cut 2.
4. Lower Sleeve – use Lower Sleeve pattern, cut 2.
5. Pocket Flap – use Pocket Flap pattern, cut 2.
6. Pocket Bag (for Chest Welt Pocket) –use Pocket Bag pattern, cut 1.
7. Pocket Bag – cut 2 rectangles (18 × 21 cm).
8. Shorten both jacket and sleeve linings by 2 cm at hem.

From Fusible Interfacing:

For drafting fusible interfacing pieces, use main pattern pieces:

1. Front – cut 2.
2. Center Front Facing – cut 2.
3. Upper Collar – cut 1.
4. Lower Collar – cut 1.
5. Pocket Flap – cut 2.
6. Chest Welt – cut 1.
7. Hem allowances of Fronts, Back, Sleeves.

Important Information

Before cutting your fabric:

• Print and lay out pattern pieces to determine yardage.
• Check mirrored pieces, notches, and grainlines.
• For patterned fabrics, align carefully for symmetry.

Assembly Instructions

Preparation

Fuse Interfacing
From the wrong side, apply fusible interfacing to: Fronts, Center Front Facings, Upper and Lower Collar, Pocket Flaps, Chest Welt, Hem allowances of Fronts, Back, and Sleeves. (Fuse with a hot iron and press cloth until fully bonded.)

Body Shaping

• Stitch front darts, cut along fold, and press open.

Pocket Flaps

• With right sides together, stitch each Pocket Flap to its lining.
• Turn right side out and press.

Chest Welt Pocket

On the Left Front, construct a single-welt breast pocket:

• Fold welt lengthwise, right sides together. Stitch short ends, trim corners, turn, and press.
• Place welt face down along pocket marking.
• Layer pocket bag (from lining fabric) over welt, and main fabric pocket bag above, facing upward.
• Stitch 5 mm on each side of marking.
• Slash between stitching, clip diagonally to corners, turn to inside.
• Zigzag or hand-stitch welt’s free edge to lining pocket bag.
• Align pocket bags, stitch around contour.
• From right side, secure welt ends to garment.

Hip Pockets

Construct double-welt pockets with flaps:

• Press welts lengthwise, wrong sides together.
• Pin upper and lower welts to Front along markings.
• Place lining pocket bag on lower welt; place main pocket bag on upper welt with flap inserted between upper welt and bag (flap turned upward).
• Stitch 5 mm from each side of marking.
• Cut opening through center, clip to corners.
• Turn pocket bags inside, roll welts to form 1 cm lips, press.
• Press flap down over opening.
• Zigzag welt edges to pocket bags.
• Align and stitch pocket bags together.
• From wrong side, secure welt ends to small fabric triangles.

Back Assembly

• Stitch Center Back seam.
• Stitch back side seams. Press.

Shoulder Seams

• Join Fronts and Back at shoulder seams. Press allowances open.

Collar

• Attach Lower Collar to neckline of shell.
• Sew Upper Collar to facings, press seams open.
• Place Upper Collar with Center Front Facings right sides together over shell with Lower Collar, stitch around neckline and front edges.
• Turn, press, baste lower edges of collar layers together.

Sleeves

• Join upper and lower sleeve seams, easing where indicated. Press allowances open.
• Turn up hem allowance, press inside, and slipstitch invisibly.
• Sleeve Cap Ease: Run gathering stitches between notches at sleeve cap, draw up threads to fit armhole. Steam-shrink ease with a hot iron tip.
• Insert sleeve into armhole, matching notches, stitching from sleeve side. Press allowances.
• Halve shoulder padding (wadding) and hand-stitch over sleeve cap.
• Attach shoulder pads.

Hem

• Turn up hem allowance, press inside, and slipstitch invisibly.

Lining

• Form movement pleat at center back; secure below neckline and a few centimeters above hem.
• Assemble lining same as main garment, leaving 20 cm opening in one sleeve seam.
• Place lining into jacket, right sides together, aligning center back and shoulder seams.
• Stitch lining to facings and neckline.
• Form jump pleat along hem; attach lining to hem allowance.
• Turn jacket right side out through sleeve opening, then close the opening by machine.

Finishing

• Work buttonholes on left lapel and left fronts as marked.
• Sew buttons in place.