Double Breasted Belted Trench Coat with Tabs

Fabric & Materials

Fabric: BACK PANEL - 2 QTY, FRONT PANEL - 2 QTY, Back SLEEVE part - 2 QTY, Front SLEEVE part - 2 QTY, Collar Stand - 1 QTY on fold, Pocket Facing - 2 QTY, Shoulder Tab - 4 QTY, SLEEVE Strap - 4 QTY, First Belt Part - 2 QTY, Second Belt Part - 2 QTY, Lower Collar - 1 QTY on fold, Front Facing - 2 QTY, Pocket Bag - 2 QTY, Front Tab - 2 QTY, Side Loop Detail - rectangle 20 x 2 cm - 1 QTY, Shoulder Tab Loop Detail - rectangle 17 x 1.5 cm - 1 QTY, SLEEVE Loop Detail - rectangle 42 x 2 cm - 1 QTY, Belt Loop - rectangle 12 x 2 cm - 1 QTY. Faux Fur: Upper Collar - 1 QTY on fold, Collar Stand - 1 QTY on fold, Inner BACK PANEL - 2 QTY, Inner FRONT PANEL - 2 QTY. Flannel: Back SLEEVE part - 2 QTY, Front SLEEVE part - 2 QTY. LINING Fabric: Back SLEEVE part - 2 QTY, Front SLEEVE part - 2 QTY, Pocket Bag - 2 QTY.

CUTTER'S MUST

• For the LINING pattern, use both SLEEVE parts, shortening the bottom by 3 cm, pocket bag - unchanged.
• FUSIBLE INTERFACING is ironed onto the designated area of the FRONT PANEL, both belt parts, shoulder tab, BACK PANEL vent SEAM ALLOWANCES, half the width of the pocket facing, the upper designated areas of both SLEEVE parts, SLEEVE straps, and the FRONT PANEL tab.

Sewing Instructions

1. Reinforce the designated area of the FRONT PANELS, two belt details, two shoulder tab details, the BACK PANEL vent SEAM ALLOWANCES, half the width of the pocket facings, the upper areas of both SLEEVE parts, SLEEVE straps, and one FRONT PANEL tab detail with FUSIBLE INTERFACING (Heat-adhesive interfacings are ironed onto the wrong side of the detail with a hot iron).
2. Fold the flannel SLEEVE details with the LINING wrong sides together, baste along the edges and treat as a single detail.
3. Fold the reinforced and unreinforced shoulder tab details right sides together, stitch all around the perimeter, leaving a small unstitched section, turn right side out, press, and topstitch along the edge.
4. Similarly, stitch the FRONT PANEL tab, leaving the short straight edge unstitched.
5. Place the FRONT PANEL tab, turned towards the front edge, on the right side of the left FRONT PANEL according to the markings, stitch and trim SEAM ALLOWANCES to 5 mm; press the tab towards the armhole and topstitch at 7 mm.
6. On each FRONT PANEL, create a "Welt pocket with a Facing" - Fold the facing in half lengthwise right sides together and stitch the short edges; turn right side out and press.
7. Topstitch along the fold of the facing at 1 cm, tapering the stitching diagonally to the ends of the facing. Pin the facing, turned downwards, to the right side of the garment according to the markings.
8. Place the pocket bag from the LINING fabric over the facing; pin the pocket bag from the main fabric, turned upwards, and stitch at a distance of 5 mm on both sides of the mark.
9. Cut the fabric in the center between the stitches, tapering to the ends of the stitches, and turn the pocket bags to the wrong side.
10. Zigzag stitch the free edge of the facing to the pocket bag.
11. Fold both pocket bags, align and stitch along the contour.
12. From the right side, stitch the ends of the facing to the main garment.
13. Topstitch along the bottom of the pocket, stitch the short ends of the facing with an additional stitch at 1 cm.
14. Stitch the center back seam, press the SEAM ALLOWANCES to the left side and topstitch at 1 cm.
15. Fold the left BACK PANEL vent SEAM ALLOWANCE to the right side of the garment, stitch along the hemline, turn right side out and press; topstitch at 1 cm along the fold of the left side of the vent.
16. Fold the hem of the right BACK PANEL part to the right side of the garment, stitch along the edge of the vent SEAM ALLOWANCE, turn right side out and press.
17. Lay the vent to the left side and topstitch a diagonal securing stitch along the top of the vent.
18. Stitch the side seams, press the SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the BACK PANEL and topstitch at 5 mm.
19. Fold the side loop detail in half lengthwise right sides together, stitch along the long edges, turn right side out, press and topstitch along the edges; cut the detail in half.
20. Fold under the raw edges of the loops, place the loops on the side seams according to the markings and stitch along the edges.
21. Stitch the upper SLEEVE seam, press the SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the front half and topstitch at 1 cm.
22. Stitch the lower SLEEVE seam.
23. Set the SLEEVE into the armhole, aligning the NOTCHES, press the SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the SLEEVE and topstitch at 1 cm.
24. Stitch the SLEEVE loop detail similarly to the side loops and cut into six parts; fold under the raw edges of the loops and stitch to the SLEEVES according to the markings.
25. Similarly, stitch and attach the shoulder tab loops according to the markings.
26. Press the SLEEVE hem allowance inwards and hand stitch with blind stitches.
27. Bind the bottom of the coat with BIAS BINDING - Place the binding on the garment right sides together, aligning along the edges, and stitch at a distance of 1/4 the width of the binding.
28. Wrap the binding around the edge of the main garment, fold under the remaining edge of the binding (1/4 the width of the binding) and topstitch along the fold, aligning it with the previous seam.
29. Stitch the Front Facing to the inner FRONT PANEL.
30. Stitch the LINING details similarly.