Double Breasted Peak Lapel Jacket

Sewing Instructions

1. Reinforce the FRONT PANEL, FACINGS, upper and lower COLLARS, pocket flaps, pocket FACINGS, pocket FACINGS, and hem allowances with FUSIBLE INTERFACING (Heat-adhesive interfacings are pressed onto the wrong side of the detail with a hot iron).
2. On the left FRONT PANEL, create a "Welt pocket with a FACING" - Fold the FACING in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the short edges; turn out and press. Pin the FACING, turned downwards, to the right side of the garment according to the markings. Place the pocket bag from the LINING fabric over the FACING; pin the pocket bag from the main fabric, turned upwards, and stitch at a distance of 5 mm on both sides of the mark. Cut the fabric in the center between the stitches, tapering to a point at the ends of the stitches, and turn the pocket bags to the wrong side. Topstitch the free edge of the FACING to the pocket bag with a zigzag stitch. Fold both pocket bags, align, and stitch along the contour. From the right side, secure the FACING to the main garment with a blind stitch and by stitching 5 mm along the edges.
3. Stitch the FRONT PANEL darts and press towards the center.
4. Stitch the pocket flap with LINING, turn out and press.
5. On each FRONT PANEL, create a "Frame pocket with two FACINGS" - Press the FACINGS in half lengthwise, right sides together. Pin the FACINGS, turned in different directions, to the right side of the main garment according to the markings. Place the pocket bag from the LINING fabric onto the lower FACING, place the pocket bag from the main fabric onto the upper FACING, inserting the flap, turned upwards, between the upper FACING and the pocket bag from the main fabric, and stitch at a distance of 5 mm on both sides of the marking. Cut the fabric in the center between the stitches, tapering to a point at the ends of the stitches, turn the pocket bags to the wrong side, and fold the FACINGS by 1 cm. Topstitch the free edges of the FACINGS to the pocket bags with a zigzag stitch. Fold both pocket bags, align, and stitch along the contour. From the wrong side, stitch the ends of the FACING to the triangles of the main fabric.
6. Stitch the BACK PANEL along the center seam and stitch the BACK PANEL reliefs.
7. Stitch the shoulder seams.
8. Quilt the canvas with blind stitches according to the markings and hem to the shoulder seam allowances.
9. Stitch the lower COLLAR along the center line and press the allowances open. Attach the lower COLLAR to the jacket neckline, stitch the upper COLLAR to the FACINGS; press the allowances open. Place the upper COLLAR, combined with the FACINGS, onto the main garment right sides together, aligning the edges, and stitch the COLLAR and fronts; turn out, press, and baste the lower edges of the COLLARS.
10. Stitch the upper and lower parts of the SLEEVE, pre-shrinking in the indicated area.
11. Create the "SLEEVE" - Gather the SLEEVE cap with small frequent stitches between the indicated marks and pull the thread until it matches the corresponding distance on the garment armhole. Dampen the fabric and press the gathers with the tip of a hot iron. Stitch the SLEEVE seam and press the allowances open. Pin the SLEEVE to the garment, aligning the NOTCHES, and stitch, sewing from the SLEEVE side. Cut the synthetic padding in half and hand-stitch along the SLEEVE cap.
12. Press the hem allowance inwards and hem with a blind stitch.
13. Attach the shoulder pads.
14. Create the "LINING" - Create a ease fold and secure it under the neckline and a few centimeters above the bottom hem. Stitch the LINING pieces similarly to the main garment, leaving an unstitched section of approx. 20 cm on the elbow seam of one of the SLEEVES. Insert the LINING into the main garment right sides together, aligning along the center back line and shoulder seams. Stitch the main garment with the LINING along the FACINGS and neckline. Create a drape fold at the bottom and stitch the LINING to the bottom hem edge. Turn the garment right side out through the unstitched SLEEVE section, then stitch this section closed.
15. Make buttonholes on the lapel and on the FRONT PANELS according to the markings.
16. Sew on buttons according to the markings.