Double Breasted Belted Trench Coat

Men’s Classic Double-Breasted Trench Coat with Faux-Fur Lining

Introducing a digital pattern for a timeless belted trench coat featuring a faux-fur upper collar and inner front and back panels – Effortless Elegance for Every Season.

When To Wear

This trench coat is a wardrobe essential, perfect for:

• City Commutes & Travel: Weather-ready and polished for everyday wear.
• Evening Outings: Layers beautifully over or tailoring for a refined finish.
• Seasonal Transitions: Lightweight outerwear that adapts to spring or autumn while offering optional faux-fur warmth.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Classic double-breasted coat with a straight body and belted waist.

Collar & Lapels: Faux-fur upper collar and stand for added warmth.

Sleeves: Two-piece raglan sleeves finished with adjustable decorative tabs and buckles.

Details: Epaulettes, full tie belt with belt loops, and welt pockets for a polished finish.

Back: Center-back seam with walking vent for ease of movement.

Lining: Partial flannel lining inside the sleeves for warmth and comfort, plus faux-fur inner back and front panels for extra insulation.

Level Of Difficulty

Advanced. Requires precision tailoring for the collar, belt, and multiple top-stitched details, as well as careful assembly of the faux-fur components.

Fabric Recommendations

Choose water-resistant or tightly woven coat fabrics for structure and durability. Pair with contrasting faux fur for the collar and inner panels:

• Classic cotton gabardine
• Medium-weight twill or poplin
• Lightweight wool blends or trench coatings
• Faux fur (for upper collar and inner panels)
• Soft flannel (for partial sleeve lining)

Additional Supplies

• Fusible interfacing – for collar, lapels, belt, and facings
• Artificial fur - for collar, stand, and inner (lining) front and back panels
• Wool flannel - for partial sleeve lining
• Lining fabric – for sleeve lining and pocket bags
• Bias tape – for garment hem and fur lining hem
• 6 large buttons (approx. 30 mm)
• 4 small buttons (approx. 15 mm)
• 1 belt buckle with prong for main belt
• 2 prong buckles for sleeve decorative tabs
• 10 Eyelets for sleeve decorative tabs
• Raglan shoulder pads

Cutter’s Must

From Main Fabric:

1. Back – 2 pieces
2. Front – 2 pieces
3. Back Sleeve – 2 pieces
4. Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
5. Stand Collar – 1 piece
6. Pocket Welt (marked on pattern as “Off-Set Welt”) – 2 pieces
7. Epaulet (marked on pattern as “Shoulder Strap”) – 4 pieces
8. Sleeve Decorative Tab – 4 pieces
9. Belt, Part 1 (marked on pattern as “First Waistband”) – 2 pieces
10. Belt, Part 2 (marked on pattern as “Second Waistband”) – 2 pieces
11. Lower Collar – 1 piece on fold
12. Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
13. Pocket Bag – 2 pieces
14. Front Tab – 2 pieces
15. Side Belt Loops (rectangle 20 х 2 cm) – 1 piece
16. Epaulet Loop (rectangle 17 × 1.5 cm) – 1 piece
17. Sleeve Strap Loops (42 х 2 сm) - 1 piece
18. Belt Loop (rectangle 12 × 2 cm) – 1 piece

From Faux Fur:

1. Upper Collar – 1 piece
2. Stand Collar – 1 piece
3. Back Fur – 2 pieces
4. Front Fur – 2 pieces

From Flannel:

1. Back Sleeve – 2 pieces
2. Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces

From Lining Fabric:

For drafting lining patterns, use:

1. Both sleeve pattern pieces, shortened by 3 cm at the hem, cut 2 each.
2. Pocket bag pattern pieces — without any changes, cut 2.

Important Information

Before cutting your fabric:

• Print and lay out pattern pieces to determine yardage.
• Check mirrored pieces, notches, and grainlines.
• For patterned fabrics, align carefully for symmetry.

Assembly Instructions

Preparation

1. Apply Fusible Interfacing

From the wrong side, apply fusible interfacing to the following areas:

• Fronts using Front Fusible pattern
• Both Belt (Waistband) pieces
• Both Epaulettes
• Back vent extensions
• Half the width of each Pocket Welt
• Upper sections of both Sleeve Parts (epaulette attachment area)
• Sleeve Decorative Tabs
• One Front Tab piece

Fuse using a hot iron and press cloth. Allow pieces to cool flat before handling.

2. Sleeve Flannel Layer (Interlining)

• Place each flannel sleeve piece against its corresponding sleeve lining wrong sides together.
• Baste around all edges and treat each pair as a single unit for further assembly.

3. Epaulettes

• Place the interfaced and non-interfaced Epaulette pieces right sides together.
• Stitch around the entire perimeter, leaving a small opening for turning.
• Trim corners, turn right side out, and press carefully.
• Close the opening and topstitch close to the edge for a decorative finish.

4. Front Tab

• Assemble the Front Tab in the same manner as the epaulettes, leaving the short straight edge unstitched.
• Place the Front Tab on the left Front, right side to right side, oriented toward the front edge, aligning it with the placement marks.
• Stitch in place, trim seam allowances to 5 mm, then press the tab toward the armhole.
• Secure with a decorative topstitch 7 mm from the seam.

5. Single-Welt Pocket

Fold the welt lengthwise, right sides together.

Stitch the short ends, trim corners, turn right side out, and press.

Topstitch 1 cm along the folded edge, tapering diagonally into the corners.

Pocket Construction

• Mark the welt pocket opening on the Front.
• Place the welt face down along the marked line.
• Place the first pocket bag (lining fabric) over the welt, right sides together.
• Place the second pocket bag (main fabric) above the opening, facing upward.
• Stitch 5 mm on both sides of the opening marking through all layers.

Turning and Securing the Pocket

• Cut the opening between the stitching lines, clipping diagonally into the corners.
• Turn both pocket bags to the wrong side.
• Zigzag the free edge of the welt to the corresponding pocket bag.
• Align both pocket bags and stitch around the contour to close the pocket.
• From the right side, secure the welt ends to the garment with short diagonal stitches.
• Reinforce the short ends of the welt with an additional line of stitching 1 cm long.

Center Back Seam & Vent Construction

• Stitch the center back seam, press seam allowances toward the left side, and topstitch 1 cm from the seam line.
• Fold the left back vent allowance to the right side of the garment and stitch along the back hem foldline.
  Turn right side out, press, and topstitch 1 cm along the fold of the left vent.
• Fold the hem allowance of the right back section to the right side of the garment and stitch along the edge of the vent allowance.
• Turn right side out and press.
• Lay the vent toward the left side and secure it at the top with a diagonal reinforcing stitch.

Side Seams

• Stitch the side seams.
• Press seam allowances toward the back.
• Topstitch 5 mm from the seam on the back side.

Side Belt Loops

• Fold the side belt loop strip lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch along the long edges.
• Turn right side out, press flat, and topstitch decoratively along both long edges.
• Cut the strip into two equal pieces.
• Turn under the raw ends of each belt loop.
• Position the loops over the side seams according to the markings and stitch securely at both ends.

Sleeves

• Stitch the upper sleeve seam.
• Press seam allowances toward the front sleeve section and topstitch 1 cm from the seam.
• Stitch the lower sleeve seam.
• Set the sleeve into the armhole, matching notches.
• Press seam allowances toward the sleeve and topstitch 1 cm from the seam.

Sleeve & Epaulette Loops

Stitch the sleeve loop strip in the same manner as the side seam loops, then cut it into six equal sections.
Turn under the raw ends of each loop and stitch the loops to the sleeves at the marked positions.

Stitch the epaulette loop strip in the same way and attach the epaulette loops at the marked positions.

Press the sleeve hem allowance to the inside and hem by hand using invisible (slip) stitches.

Finish the Coat Hem with Bias Binding

Bind the coat hem with bias tape:

• Place the bias tape right sides together with the garment hem edge, aligning raw edges, and stitch at a distance equal to ¼ of the tape width from the edge.
• Wrap the bias tape around the raw edge to the wrong side of the garment, turn under the remaining raw edge of the tape (¼ of the tape width), and stitch along the fold, aligning it with the previous seam.

Attach the Center Front Facing

Stitch the Center Front Facing to the Front Fur.

Lining

• Stitch the lining pieces following the construction of the main garment, without decorative stitching.
• Finish the lining hem with bias binding in the same way as the coat hem.

Collar & Collar Stand Assembly (Upper Collar in Fur)

• Stitch the Stand Collar from the main fabric to the Lower Collar, right sides together, matching the notches. Press the seam allowances open.
• Stitch the fur Upper Collar to the fur Stand Collar, right sides together, matching the notches.
• With right sides together, stitch the Lower Collar into the garment neckline, aligning the notches with the shoulder seams.
• Assemble the fur lining in the same manner by stitching the fur Upper Collar to the fur lining, matching the corresponding notches.

Attaching Collar, Facings, and Lining

• Place the fur lining with the attached fur Upper Collar right sides together with the main garment.
• Stitch along the collar and front edges (lapels and fronts) in one continuous seam.
• Press the seam allowances toward the Lower Collar and the garment fronts.
• Secure the seam allowances with a fixing/topstitch 1 cm from the edge along the collar and lapels.

Final Finishing (Hem, Vent & Lining)

• Turn the garment right side out and press.
• From the wrong side, hand-stitch the lower edge of the upper collar to the garment neckline.
• Turn the coat hem allowance to the inside and stitch along the edge.
• Turn under the open edges of the right back vent allowances of both shell and lining and hand-stitch them together invisibly.
• Clip the lining seam allowance at the base of the left vent and hand-stitch it to the garment vent extension with slip stitches.

Decorative Topstitching (Front Edges)

Work a decorative topstitch along the front edges from the lapels down to the hem.

Sleeve Decorative Tabs

• Place the sleeve strap pieces right sides together.
• Stitch along the long edges and the angled short end.
• Turn right side out, press, and topstitch decoratively along the edges.
• Install metal eyelets as marked.
• Attach the buckle to the open end of each sleeve strap.
• Thread the sleeve straps through the sleeve loops and fasten with the buckles.

Sleeve Lining Hem

Turn under the lining sleeve hem and hand-stitch it to the hem allowance of the outer sleeve.

Belt Assembly

• Stitch the first and second belt parts together along the center seam.
• Construct the belt in the same manner as the Sleeve Decorative Tabs (turn, press, and topstitch).
• Make the belt loop, stitch it into a ring, insert it onto the belt, and secure it near the buckle.

Buttonholes & Buttons

Hand-work buttonholes as marked on:

– the front tab
– the upper edge of the back vent
– the epaulettes
– the left front
– the upper buttonhole on the right front

Sew buttons in corresponding positions.