Men's Double Breasted Peaked Lapel Jacket

Sewing Instructions

1. Reinforce the FRONT PANEL, upper and lower COLLARS, both stand details, flaps, and pocket FACINGS, and the welt pocket lip with FUSIBLE INTERFACING (Heat-adhesive interfacings are ironed onto the wrong side of the detail with a strongly heated iron).
2. Similarly, reinforce the hem allowances of the BACK PANEL, SIDE PANELS, and SLEEVES with leftover FUSIBLE INTERFACING on the bias.
3. Cut the pocket opening, stitch and press open the dart; baste the pocket opening.
4. On the left FRONT PANEL, make a "Welt pocket with a lip" - Fold the lip in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the short edges; turn out and press.
5. Pin the lip, turned downwards, to the right side of the garment according to the markings.
6. Place the pocket bag from LINING fabric over the lip; pin the pocket bag from the main fabric, turned upwards, and stitch 5 mm on both sides of the mark.
7. Cut the fabric in the center between the stitching lines, cutting diagonally to the ends of the stitching lines, and turn the pocket bags to the wrong side.
8. Topstitch the free edge of the lip to the pocket bag with a zigzag stitch.
9. Fold both pocket bags, align, and stitch along the contour.
10. From the right side, stitch the ends of the lip to the main garment.
11. Stitch the FRONT PANEL darts and press open the allowances.
12. Face the flaps with LINING, turn out, and press.
13. On each FRONT PANEL, make a "Framed pocket with two FACINGS" - Press the FACINGS in half lengthwise, right sides together.
14. Pin the FACINGS, turned in different directions, to the right side of the main garment according to the markings.
15. Place the pocket bag from LINING fabric onto the lower FACING, place the pocket bag from the main fabric onto the upper FACING, inserting the flap, turned upwards, between the upper FACING and the pocket bag from the main fabric, and stitch 5 mm on both sides of the marking.
16. Cut the fabric in the center between the stitching lines, cutting diagonally to the ends of the stitching lines, turn the pocket bags to the wrong side, and fold the FACINGS by 1 cm.
17. Topstitch the free edges of the FACINGS to the pocket bags with a zigzag stitch.
18. Fold both pocket bags, align, and stitch along the contour.
19. From the wrong side, stitch the ends of the FACING to the triangles of the main fabric.
20. From the wrong side of the FRONT PANEL, quilt the canvas according to the markings with blind stitches.
21. Stitch the BACK PANEL along the center seam.
22. Stitch the side and shoulder seams. Press open the allowances.
23. Attach BIAS BINDING to the armhole allowances of the BACK PANEL and SIDE PANEL to prevent stretching.
24. Attach the stands to the upper and lower COLLARS and press open the allowances.
25. Set the lower COLLAR into the neckline and press open the allowances.
26. Attach the FACINGS to the upper COLLAR and press open the allowances.
27. Place the FACINGS, combined with the upper COLLAR, onto the main garment right sides together and face the fronts and COLLAR; turn out, press, and hem the upper COLLAR to the neckline.
28. Stitch along the attachment line of the stands.
29. Make a "Two-piece SLEEVE with a slit" - Stitch the upper and elbow parts of the SLEEVE up to the slit mark, first shrinking the upper part of the SLEEVE; press open the allowances and turn the SLEEVE to the right side.
30. Fold the slit allowances and the bottom hem to the right side of the garment, stitch the corner diagonally, trim excess fabric 1 cm from the seam, and press open the allowances.
31. Press the hem and allowances inwards, hem with a cross stitch, and set the slit.
32. Make a "SLEEVE" - Gather the SLEEVE cap with small frequent stitches between the indicated marks and pull the thread to match the corresponding distance on the garment's armhole.
33. Moisten the fabric and shrink the gathers with the tip of a strongly heated iron.
34. Stitch the SLEEVE seam and press open the allowances.
35. Pin the SLEEVE to the garment, aligning the control marks, and stitch, working the seam from the SLEEVE side.
36. Divide the synthetic padding in half and hand-stitch along the SLEEVE caps.
37. Press the bottom hem inwards and hem with a blind stitch.
38. Similarly, hem the bottom of the SLEEVE.
39. Attach shoulder pads.
40. Stitch the LINING BACK PANEL along the center seam.
41. Make the "LINING" - Create a ease pleat and secure it under the neckline and a few centimeters above the bottom hem.
42. Stitch the LINING details similarly to the main garment, leaving an unstitched section of approx. 20 cm on the elbow seam of one of the SLEEVES.
43. Insert the LINING into the main garment right sides together, aligning along the center back line and shoulder seams.
44. Face the main garment with the LINING along the FACINGS and neckline.
45. Create a ease pleat at the bottom and attach the LINING to the bottom hem allowance.
46. Turn the garment through the remaining unstitched SLEEVE section, then stitch this section closed.
47. Baste buttonholes on the right and left FRONT PANELS and on the lapels according to the markings; sew on buttons.
48. Baste buttonholes on the SLEEVES (without cutting) and secure the slits with buttons.