Midi length Oversized Coat

Sewing Instructions

1. Note: As pieces are sewn together, press all SEAM ALLOWANCES open.
2. Reinforce the lapel sections of the FRONT PANELS, FACINGS, upper and lower COLLARS, stands, pocket flap details made of main fabric, pocket welt, and the hems of the coat and SLEEVES with FUSIBLE INTERFACING (Heat-activated interfacing is pressed onto the wrong side of the piece with a hot iron).
3. Stitch the FRONT PANEL dart, cut along the fold, and press open.
4. On the left FRONT PANEL, create a "Welt Pocket" - Fold the welt in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the short edges; turn out and press. Pin the welt, turned downwards, to the right side of the garment according to the markings. Place the pocket bag from the LINING fabric over the welt; pin the pocket bag from the main fabric, turned upwards, and stitch 5 mm on both sides of the mark. Cut the fabric through the center between the stitching lines, tapering to a point at the ends of the stitching, and turn the pocket bags to the wrong side. Topstitch the free edge of the welt to the pocket bag with a zigzag stitch. Fold both pocket bags, align, and stitch along the contour. From the right side, topstitch the ends of the welt to the main garment.
5. Fold the pocket flap detail from the main fabric with the LINING, right sides together, stitch along the outer edges, turn out, press, and finish the edge with a decorative basting stitch.
6. On each FRONT PANEL, create a "Double Welt Pocket" - Press the FACINGS in half lengthwise, right sides together. Pin the FACINGS, turned in opposite directions, to the right side of the main garment according to the markings. Place the pocket bag from the LINING fabric onto the lower FACING, place the pocket bag from the main fabric onto the upper FACING, inserting the flap, turned upwards, between the upper FACING and the pocket bag from the main fabric, and stitch 5 mm on both sides of the marking. Cut the fabric through the center between the stitching lines, tapering to a point at the ends of the stitching, turn the pocket bags to the wrong side, and fold the FACINGS by 1 cm. Topstitch the free edges of the FACINGS to the pocket bags with a zigzag stitch. Fold both pocket bags, align, and stitch along the contour. From the wrong side, topstitch the ends of the FACING to the main fabric triangles.
7. Stitch the dart on the BACK PANEL according to the markings and press towards the center back.
8. Stitch the center back seam up to the vent mark. Fold the left vent SEAM ALLOWANCE of the BACK PANEL to the right side of the garment and stitch along the hemline; turn out and press. Fold the hem of the right back section to the right side of the garment and stitch along the edge of the vent SEAM ALLOWANCE; turn out and press. Fold the vent to the left side and place an angled securing stitch along the top of the vent.
9. Fold the strap pieces right sides together, stitch along the long and rounded edges, turn out, press, and finish the edge with a decorative basting stitch. Pin the strap, turned towards the center seam, to the BACK PANEL according to the markings.
10. Stitch the side seams, attaching the strap parts.
11. Stitch the shoulder seams, pre-shrinking the indicated area.
12. Attach the stands to the upper and lower COLLARS, aligning the NOTCHES. Insert the lower COLLAR into the neckline of the main garment, right sides together, aligning the NOTCHES with the shoulder seams; stitch the upper COLLAR to the FACINGS. Place the FACINGS, joined with the upper COLLAR, onto the main garment right sides together and stitch along the edge of the COLLAR, the front edges, and the lower edges of the FACINGS; turn out, press, and finish the edges with a decorative basting stitch. Sew the open edge of the upper COLLAR to the neckline of the main garment.
13. Create a "Two-piece SLEEVE with Slit" - Stitch the upper and elbow parts of the SLEEVE up to the slit mark, pre-shrinking the upper back part of the SLEEVE; press the SEAM ALLOWANCES open and turn the SLEEVE to the right side. Fold the slit SEAM ALLOWANCES and the hem to the right side of the garment, stitch the corner diagonally, trim excess fabric 1 cm from the seam, and press the SEAM ALLOWANCES open. Press the hem and SEAM ALLOWANCES inwards, hem with a cross stitch, and fold the slit.
14. Create a "SLEEVE" - Gather the SLEEVE cap with small, frequent stitches between the indicated marks and pull the thread until it matches the corresponding distance on the armhole of the garment. Dampen the fabric and shrink the gathers with the tip of a hot iron. Stitch the SLEEVE seam and press the SEAM ALLOWANCES open. Pin the SLEEVE to the garment, aligning the NOTCHES, and stitch, sewing from the SLEEVE side. Cut the synthetic padding in half and sew it to the wrong side along the SLEEVE caps.
15. Press the hem of the coat inwards and hem with blind stitches.
16. Sew on the shoulder pads.
17. Create the "LINING" - Create a pleat for ease of movement and secure it under the neckline and a few centimeters above the hem. Stitch the LINING pieces similarly to the main garment, leaving an unstitched section of approx. 20 cm on the elbow seam of one of the SLEEVES. Insert the LINING into the main garment right sides together, aligning along the center back line and shoulder seams.