Men's Notched Lapel Three Button Jacket
Introducing a distinguished men's sewing pattern for a classically tailored jacket, featuring a distinguished notched lapel, a three-button front closure, structured flap pockets, and a sophisticated, padded construction.
When To Wear
This versatile jacket is suitable for a range of occasions, providing a polished and sophisticated look:
- Professional Settings: Ideal for business meetings, office wear, or any professional engagement.
- Semi-Formal Events: Perfect for dinners, parties, or social gatherings requiring smart attire.
- Everyday Elegance: Elevate a casual outfit with its refined tailoring and classic appeal.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Classic, tailored fit through the body with a structured drape.
Collar & Lapel: Notched lapel with a traditional collar stand for a sharp finish.
Closure: Single-breasted front with a three-button closure.
Sleeves: Two-piece set-in sleeves, shaped for a clean arm line, finished with four functional buttons at each cuff.
Pockets: Two lower flap pockets and a single left chest welt pocket.
Back: Features a clean, tailored back with a center seam and a single back vent for ease of movement.
Length: Standard jacket length, finishing at the low hip.
Level Of Difficulty
Advanced. Requires confident tailoring skills including precise interfacing application, multi-piece sleeve and body construction, complex pocket techniques, and working with lining and padding for a structured garment.
Fabric Recommendations
Choose classic suiting materials that support structure and sharp tailoring:
- Wool or wool blend suiting fabrics
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- 40 cm of canvas interfacing (90 cm wide)
- 1.20 m of fusible interfacing (140 cm wide)
- 80 cm of synthetic padding (8 cm wide)
- 3 buttons (17 mm diameter)
- 8 buttons (12 mm diameter)
- Shoulder pads
Sewing Instructions
Note: As you stitch the pieces, press all seam allowances open.
- Reinforce the front panels, side panels, upper and lower collars, stand, half the width of the welt pocket facing, pocket flaps made of main fabric, the left vent seam allowance of the back, and the hem allowances of the jacket and sleeves with fusible interfacing (Heat-activated interfacing is pressed onto the wrong side of the piece with a hot iron).
- Cut the pocket opening on the front, stitch the darts, cut along the folds and press open; baste the pocket opening edges.
- On the left front, create a "Welt Pocket with a facing" - Fold the facing in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the short edges; turn out and press. Pin the facing, turned downwards, to the right side of the garment according to the markings. Place the pocket bag from the lining fabric over the facing; pin the pocket bag from the main fabric, turned upwards, and stitch 5 mm on both sides of the mark. Cut the fabric in the center between the stitching lines, tapering to a point at the ends of the stitching, and turn the pocket bags to the wrong side. Topstitch the free edge of the facing to the pocket bag with a zigzag stitch. Fold both pocket bags, align, and stitch along the contour. From the right side, topstitch the ends of the facing to the main garment.
- Stitch the front princess seams.
- Fold the pocket flap piece from the main fabric with the lining, right sides together, stitch along the outer edges, turn out and press.
- On each front, create a "Double-Welt Pocket with two facings" - Press the facings in half lengthwise, right sides together. Pin the facings, turned in opposite directions, to the right side of the main garment according to the markings. Place the pocket bag from the lining fabric on the lower facing, place the pocket bag from the main fabric on the upper facing, inserting the flap, turned upwards, between the upper facing and the pocket bag from the main fabric, and stitch 5 mm on both sides of the marking. Cut the fabric in the center between the stitching lines, tapering to a point at the ends of the stitching, turn the pocket bags to the wrong side, and fold the facings 1 cm. Topstitch the free edges of the facings to the pocket bags with a zigzag stitch. Fold both pocket bags, align, and stitch along the contour. From the wrong side, stitch the ends of the facing to the main fabric triangles.
- Stitch the center back seam up to the vent mark and the upper edges of the vent seam allowances.
- Stitch the shoulder seams, pressing the indicated area beforehand.
- Quilt the canvas to the wrong side of the front according to the markings.
- Stitch the back princess seams, pressing the indicated area beforehand.
- Stitch the center seam of the lower collar and press the seam allowances open.
- Attach the lower collar to the neckline of the main garment, aligning the notches with the shoulder seams; stitch the upper collar to the facings. Place the facings, combined with the upper collar, onto the main garment right sides together and stitch the collar and front edges; turn out and press. Sew the lower edge of the upper collar to the back neckline of the main garment.
- Create a "Two-Piece sleeve with a Slit" - Stitch the upper and elbow parts of the sleeve up to the slit mark, pressing the back of the upper sleeve beforehand; press the seam allowances and turn the sleeve to the right side. Fold the slit seam allowances and the hem allowance to the right side of the garment, stitch the corner diagonally, trim excess fabric 1 cm from the seam, and press the seam allowances. Press the hem and seam allowances inwards, hem with a cross stitch, and set the slit.
- Create a "sleeve" - Gather the sleeve cap with small, frequent stitches between the indicated marks and pull the thread until it matches the corresponding distance on the armhole of the garment. Dampen the fabric and press the gathers with the tip of a hot iron. Stitch the sleeve seam and press the seam allowances. Pin the sleeve to the garment, aligning the notches, and stitch, sewing from the sleeve side. Cut the synthetic padding in half and sew it to the wrong side along the sleeve caps.
- Fold the vent seam allowance of the left back to the right side of the garment and topstitch along the hemline; fold the hem allowance of the right back to the right side of the garment and topstitch along the edge of the vent seam allowance; turn out and press. Fold the vent to the left side and press.
- Press the jacket hem allowance inwards and hem with blind stitches; similarly, hem the bottom of the sleeves.
- Sew on the shoulder pads.
- Create the "lining" - Create a ease pleat and secure it under the neckline and a few centimeters above the hem allowance. Stitch the lining pieces similarly to the main garment, leaving an unstitched section of approx. 20 cm on the elbow seam of one of the sleeves. Insert the lining into the main garment right sides together, aligning along the center back line and shoulder seams. Stitch the main garment to the lining along the facings and neckline. Create a ease pleat at the bottom and stitch the lining to the hem allowance edge, stitching the lining along the fold of the right back vent facing and along the edge of the left back vent facing (previously cut).
