Men's Long Double-Breasted Overcoat

Men’s Double-Breasted Overcoat with Big Patch Pockets with Flaps, Sleeve Cuffs, Back Belt & Center Back Vent

A men's below-the-knee double-breasted overcoat with notched lapels, a six-button front, flapped patch pockets and turned-back sleeve cuffs. A half belt across the back, a centre back vent, 1 cm topstitching on the edges and a full lining.

When To Wear

• Over a suit or a jacket in autumn and winter.
• With knitwear, trousers or jeans for town wear in cold weather.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Straight overcoat with padded shoulders; the back is drawn in by tucks and a half belt.

Length: Below the knee.

Collar: Notched lapels with a buttonhole in each lapel. The upper collar has a separate stand, topstitched on both sides of the stand seam; the under collar is one piece with a cut-on stand.

Sleeves: Two-piece set-in sleeves with eased caps and wadding sleeve heads; lined turn-back cuffs with a slit, tacked to the sleeve.

Front: Double-breasted, six buttons in three pairs; separate front facings. Front edges and collar topstitched 1 cm from the edge.

Pockets: Large lined patch pockets on the fronts with a 4 cm self-facing topstitched 1.5 cm from the top fold, machine-topstitched on 1 cm from the edge; a lined flap above.

Back: Tucks pressed towards the centre; centre back seam topstitched 1 cm, ending in a vent; a lined half belt of two straps caught in the side seams and buttoned at the centre.

Finishing: Fusible interfacing on the front, facings, collar, flaps, straps and hem allowances; hems sewn by hand; shoulder pads.

Lining: Full lining with a 2 cm ease pleat at the centre back and a jump pleat at the hem, sewn around the vent; the coat is turned through an opening in a sleeve seam.

Level Of Difficulty

Advanced. A two-part collar set between the coat and the facings, a lined back vent, lined patch pockets, flaps, belt and cuffs, and a bagged lining.

Fabric Recommendations

Wool or wool-blend coating, with or without a pile.

Additional Supplies

• Lining fabric in a matching colour
• Fusible interfacing in a matching colour, 2.2 m, 140 cm wide
• Polyester wadding strip, 80 cm long, 8 cm wide, for the sleeve heads
• 9 buttons, 25 mm
• Shoulder pads

Cutter’s Must

From Main Fabric:

1. Back - 2 pieces
2. Front - 2 pieces
3. Upper Sleeve - 2 pieces
4. Lower Sleeve - 2 pieces
5. Sleeve Turn Up - 2 pieces
6. Upper Collar - 1 piece
7. Stand Collar for Upper Collar - 1 piece
8. Pocket Flap - 2 pieces
9. Back Belt (marked on pattern as “Strap”) - 2 pieces
10. Center Front Facing - 2 pieces
11. Pocket - 2 pieces
12. Lower Collar (with cut-on stand) - 1 piece

From Lining:

For drafting the lining pattern pieces, use the following modifications:

1. Back lining: use Back pattern, add a 2 cm ease pleat at center back, exclude vent extension, cut 2.
2. Front lining: use Front pattern excluding Center Front Facing area, cut 2.
3. Pocket: use pocket pattern shortening it by 4 cm
4. Sleeves lining, cuffs lining, back belt lining and pocket flap lining: use main pattern pieces without any modification.
5. Shorten the lining length by 2 cm at the hem.

From Fusible Interfacing:

• Front Fusible Interfacing – cut 2.
• Center Front Facing – cut 2.
• Upper Collar – cut 1.
• Stand Collar – cut 1.
• Lower Collar – cut 1.
• Pocket Flaps – cut 2.
• Back Belt – cut 2.
• Patch pocket opening edge (top fold) and pocket hem allowance – cut 1.
• Hem allowances of fronts, back, and sleeves

Important Information

Before cutting your fabric:

• Print and lay out pattern pieces to determine yardage.
• Check mirrored pieces, notches, and grainlines.
• For patterned fabrics, align carefully for symmetry.

Assembly Instructions

Preparation

• From the wrong side, apply fusible interfacing to:
  • Fronts
  • Center Front Facings
  • Upper Collar
  • Stand Collar
  • Lower Collar
  • Pocket flaps
  • Back belt
  • Patch pocket opening edge (top fold) and pocket hem allowance
  • Hem allowances of fronts, back, and sleeves

(Press firmly with a hot iron using a press cloth.)

Patch Pockets & Flaps

• The pocket lining is 4 cm shorter than the main pocket piece to form the self-facing.
• With right sides together, stitch pocket lining to the upper edge of the pocket piece.
• Turn lining to the wrong side so that 4 cm of main fabric folds to the inside as a built-in pocket facing. Press.
• Fold pocket and lining right sides together again. Stitch around the remaining perimeter, leaving a 2–3 cm opening for turning.
• Clip corners, turn pocket right side out through the gap. Press edges flat. Close the opening with hand slipstitch.
• Topstitch 1.5 cm from the top fold to secure the facing line.
• Position pocket on front panel according to markings. Baste, then topstitch 1 cm around the sides and lower edge to secure.

Pocket Flaps

• Place each flap and its lining right sides together.
• Stitch around the perimeter, leaving a 2 cm opening along the top (attachment) edge for turning.
• Trim corners, turn right side out through the opening, and press edges sharply.
• Close the opening with a hand slipstitch.
• Topstitch 1 cm from the edge around the flap — do not topstitch along the upper (attachment) edge.
• Position the flap on the Front above the pocket opening, flap pointing upward, aligning with the placement markings.
• Stitch only the upper edge of the flap to the Front (this seam will be concealed once the flap is folded down).
• Fold the flap downward to cover the pocket opening and press neatly.

Optionally, topstitch 1 cm along the fold line to secure the flap position and reinforce the seam.

Back, Vent & Belt

Back Assembly:

• Sew center back seam to the vent marking.
• Topstitch 1 cm

Back Vent:

• Press left vent facing to right side along hem foldline; stitch along hem fold. Turn right side out and press.
• Press right back hem allowance to right side along vent edge; stitch, turn out, press.
• Overlap vent to left side and secure at top with a diagonal reinforcement stitch.

Back Belt (Half Belt):

• Place belt and belt lining right sides together. Stitch around, leaving a small opening.
• Turn, press, and topstitch 1 cm.
• Position belt on back panel as marked and baste in place. Final stitching is done after side seams.

Main Assembly

• Sew side seams; press allowances open.
• Sew shoulder seams; press allowances open.
• Attach back belt permanently across side seams.

Collar & Facings

Lower Collar:

• Attach the lower collar to the coat neckline, right sides together.
• Clip curves and press allowances downward.

Upper Collar + Stand Collar:

• Sew Stand Collar to Upper Collar, right sides together; press seam open.
• Attach this Upper Collar + Stand Collar to the front facings; press seam allowances open.

Joining to Garment:

• Place center front facing/upper collar unit right sides together with the coat.
• Stitch along front edges and collar.
• Trim corners, turn right side out, press.
• Topstitch 1 cm along front edges and collar.

If needed, slipstitch the inner neckline edge of the upper collar stand to conceal the seam.

Sleeves & Sleeve Turn Ups

1. Sleeve Assembly

• Press-shape (steam) the upper sleeve along marked areas where easing is required.
• Stitch upper sleeve to lower sleeve along the elbow/back seam. Press seam allowances open.
• Stitch front sleeve seam. Press allowances open.

2. Construct Sleeve Turn Ups

• Stitch each turn up into a ring (up to the marked slit). Press seam allowances open.
• With right sides together, stitch turn up to its lining along outer long edge and short sides. Leave bottom edge open.
• Trim corners, turn right side out, and press.
• Topstitch 1 cm from the edge (as shown in the technical drawing).

3. Attach Turn Ups to Sleeves

• Place the finished Turn Up with its lining side facing the right side of the sleeve hem.
• Stitch Turn Up to the sleeve along the hem edge.
• Turn the Turn Ups down so the seam allowance is hidden inside.
• From the right side, stitch the lower edge of Turn Up to the sleeve exactly in the seamline (a “stitch-in-the-ditch” or edge-stitch).

4. Secure the Turn Ups

• Fold Turn Up upward into its final position.
• Tack (hand-sew) the Turn Up at:
  • the sleeve seam, and
  • just below the sleeve slit.

5. Setting In the Sleeve

• Ease-stitch sleeve cap between notches using fine running stitches.
• Pull threads until sleeve cap fits armhole.
• Steam-shrink fullness at sleeve head.
• Pin sleeve into armhole, right side to right side, matching notches. Stitch with sleeve side up.
• Attach sleeve head wadding and shoulder pads.

Hem

Turn coat hem allowance to inside, press, and slipstitch by hand.

Lining

• Sew the rest of lining in the same order as shell. Leave 20 cm opening in one sleeve.
• Add 2 cm pleat at center back and secure at neckline and above hem.
• Insert lining into coat, right sides together, matching shoulder seams and center back.
• Stitch lining to front facings and neckline.
• Fold hem allowance up, creating a jump pleat; stitch lining to hem and vent facings (clip at vent base if necessary).
• Turn coat right side out through sleeve opening and close opening by hand.

Finishing

• Work buttonholes on left fronts, lapels, and back belt as marked.
• Sew buttons on right front, sleeve Turn Ups, and back belt.
• Final press.